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BETA PHOTO: Brad Shilling on Bandito
|BLM Managed Lands at Castle Rocks CLOSED TO CLIMBING!! Castle Rocks State Park lands are OPEN TO CLIMBING MORE INFO >>>|
Fun RF flaring finger to hand crack/flake system on great rock. The first half is the hardest then eases up a bit. Takes gear great. The crack ends about 40 feet from the summit and the run out is a bit heady to the anchors on the west side. Not hard climbing (5.5 or so) but watch the rope drag.
The obvious crack on the East side.
Double set of camalots and a set of nuts a few runners as well. Use " Mole' Problano's" anchors on the west side. Rap with 1 rope.
Bandito. Brad gettin' the rope up, as usual.
By Lucas Barth
From: Devils Tower, WY
Sep 23, 2010
There are now anchors at the end of the crack. You don't have to run it out to the top. Excellent route. Great gear and funky fun climbing and jamming.
By Mike Roghaar
May 4, 2011
Thanks for the update Lucas. Its nice there is an anchor now. Not near as heady.
By sam murray
Apr 27, 2016
Super fun! The anchors are very appreciated and make for a more pleasant experience. The crack is sharper than most at either castle or the city and you may want to consider tapping up.