|Type:||Trad, 1 pitch, 50'|
|Original:||YDS: 5.8+ French: 5b Ewbanks: 16 UIAA: VI- ZA: 15 British: HVS 4c [details]|
|FA:||KC Baum and Don Anderson, 9/87|
|Submitted By:||Matthew Seymour on Jan 19, 2007|
|Comments on Bandito||Add Comment|
|Show which comments —
Sep 24, 2012
|Really fun, bouldering style start...the first 30-ish feet are definitely the highlight of the climb.|
By Dave Bail
Jan 7, 2013
|Just an itsy bitsy devious....|
By Andy Bowen
From: Grand Junction, CO
Sep 11, 2015
Yeah, just that one crux right off the ground...? Ok, my two cents.... Climbed fine for 10 feet, "bouldery start" I guess, then the grade becomes something else, or maybe it is just Unaweep granite. I have climbed for a while now and never had a 5.8+ present that many crimps (maybe I was blind to the jugs?) and big friction moves. Topped off with a "should I try this left line to the anchors or make a huge move over to them? Huge move on right gets pro, the sloping left gets nada...?"
By standard rack, they must have meant lots of smalls. More than one, 0.3, 0.2 Camalots or TCU equivalent are great. The last, smaller than they mention, piece before the end of the 20 foot crack is important... I didn't have one...
I already admitted it may be the Unaweep Granite, so hold off on the manly jokes. I really just wanted to help the next guy/gal with what to expect. DO IT, it is fun, but... 1987 5.8+, is a different sort of grade, the system has gone through a few changes in the last 30 years. This climb felt very tough for the grade. I have noticed this to be common on many older climbs throughout the granite. This one just forced my hand to comment on, haha.
Consistent grades in Unaweep granite? No. This should at least make anyone a little better by the end of the trip. :)