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Mexican Hat
Select Route:
Bandito Route 
Robbins Route 

Bandito Route 

C1

   
Type:  Aid, 1 pitch, 40'
Consensus: A0 [details]
FA: Banditos Climbing Club
Page Views: 3,407
Submitted By: Andrew Gram on Sep 27, 2001

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (27)
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Reaching bolt #2.

Description 

Its hard to think of this route as a climb - its more of an experience. Looks for the line of bolts on the caprock, and climb it. I didn't have a stick clip, so my partner stood on my back and clipped the first bolt - this added immensely to the climb. The leader should leave a daisy or sling on the first bolt for the second. The route overhangs so much it is easier to reclimb it than to jug.

The summit is big and a good place to stretch out and relax. There are fixed rap anchors and interesting relics in the summit cairn.

The route is worth doing purely because it is so strange. I've never seen anything else like it.

Protection 

A few biners and aid climbing hardware is all you need-the route is a bolt ladder. A stick clip is useful for the first bolt, but you get full redit if you clip it by standing on your belayer's back.


Photos of Bandito Route Slideshow Add Photo
Andrea Gordon at the base of the climb.    Photo by Todd Gordon
Andrea Gordon at the base of the climb. Photo b...
Mark leading the Bandito Route, Mexican Hat
Mark leading the Bandito Route, Mexican Hat
Go!  A speed ascent begins ...  The rope hanging down is not being used.
Go! A speed ascent begins ... The rope hanging d...
stick clipping
stick clipping
The middle of Bill and Steve's speed ascent.
The middle of Bill and Steve's speed ascent.
Meriah Meloche belaying. In the bottom of the photo is the stick we got from down by the river for the clip. March 2003.
Meriah Meloche belaying. In the bottom of the phot...
Meriah Meloche belaying. Brit Hyland waiting for the rock to start moving. March 2003.
Meriah Meloche belaying. Brit Hyland waiting for t...
Not that this thing really needs a topo... There's a PDF version of this formatted to fit on an 8.5 x 11 page here: <a href='http://www.thealoof.com/climbing-mexican-hat-utah/' target='_blank' rel='nofollow' >thealoof.com/climbing-mexican-...</a>
BETA PHOTO: Not that this thing really needs a topo... There's...
What the hell am I supposed to do here??? <br /> <br />(photo - Kathleen Skinner, March '02)
What the hell am I supposed to do here???

(photo ...
Lowering off after a "rafting ascent" which consists of <br />Flip flops, swimsuit, nrs straps for daisy chains, and slings for harness.
Lowering off after a "rafting ascent" which consis...

Comments on Bandito Route Add Comment
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Comments displayed oldest to newestSkip Ahead to the Most Recent Dated Apr 3, 2013
By Anonymous Coward
Oct 26, 2001

I think we have the current speed record. 9min. 45sec. Bottom of route to top. Ye haw. Peter Holcombe & Chad Greedy
By Mike Sofranko
Oct 30, 2001

The criteria for the speed record on this route is car to summit, both climbers AND the cooler of beer.
By Anonymous Coward
Mar 21, 2002

I soloed this route last month, sans stick clip. I'm 5'7", so clipping the first bolt was quite an experience. I had a tent pole in my car; but I'm very lazy, so I elected to use the tools I had with me. I interlaced some stoppers, a funkness device, and taped them to my hammer. Then I stood on two wobbly rocks, and jumped for the first bolt. Wee!!! Bring a stick clip--or a belayer.

Anyone got beta on the free route next to it? Looks like 5.11 - Mark
By Bill Wright
Oct 14, 2002

Steve Mathias and I climbed this route in around 7.5 minutes this past Saturday and then George Bell and I did it in 5m33s. That said anyone who is halfway decent with aiders should be able to crush this time - if they have George jugging. He jugged the route in 63 seconds! Stupid, silly, FUN stuff.
By Russell Oakley
Sep 3, 2003

FYI- A piece of the history of this route

I was with my "Rock Guide Training" instructor, Rusty Baillie, receiving credit from Prescott College, in AZ. It was 1991, and I was 22. He was at least 62, and way harder than me.

A quick note on Baillie- He grew up in Rhodesia. He is pretty tall and lean, and his smile is broad. His climbing credits include the FA of The Old Man of Hoy (w/ Joe Brown on TV in Scotland- Baillie was on the rigging team), the 40th ascent of the N. Face of the Eiger (w/ Dougal Haston), and the FA of the Dragon route in the Black Canyon of the Gunnison. He has some whole sport areas to his credit also, scattered about AZ. On winter mountaineering courses, he would anchor his students to a ridge, then jump up and down on a cornice (in skis), wherein they could practice self- arrest, then crevasse rescue.

Three of us scrambled up to the base: Baillie, me, and another student (whose name now escapes me.) This other fellow was psyched to lead the route, as he was up on his Bandito lore. The route was intimidating.

"Wait" you say, "It's just a bolt ladder- it can't be that bad!"

When we got there in '91, the first piece was a drilled 1/2" angle, pointing downward at about 70 degrees, the eye was about 1/2" out from the rock (probably bottomed- out). A huge drop to the age- hardened dirt waited below. The dude stretched from a stack of rock slabs to clip the angle, and then he set off on knotted slings in his flip- flops. The second placement was a 1/4" x 1" button- head, with the word "bandito" stamped into the home-made aluminum hanger. The dude was up it in about 15 minutes, then I followed, then Baillie. The dude descended to get a picture, then Baillie went down. When I came down over the lip, Baillie said "Stop there." I stopped, and he handed me the Hilti and bolt kit. The buttonhead came out with a few hammer- blows, and a 3/8" x 3" Rawl 5- piece went in (with epoxy) in minutes. Next came the angle. One hammer- tap, and the pin fell into my hand (I swear!) I had difficulty holding the drill at the right angle, and the hole was drilled in under 10 seconds. The bolt was tapped in and cranked tight, but the hanger didn't sit flush with the rock. About 1/2" of the sleeve is showing behind the hanger. These are the first and only bolts I have ever placed on a rock route. Baillie has the Bandito gear, probably buried somewhere in a box of climbing schwag.

Back in town, which consisted of one gas station and two bars, we sat at the bar and celebrated the last ascent of the Bandito Route. There were about ten Navajos in the small room, and us. After about the sixth round or so (I was really thirsty), this little white guy with a big mustache came in with a set of bagpipes. He set up in the corner, and started just whaling away. The din was mind-blowing. Baillie got up, grabbed two pool cues, held them over his head, crossed, then set them on the floor. He proceeded to do a sword dance, hopping through each of the four quadrants. The Navajos banged their glasses on the bar in time. I think I almost passed out. Baillie drove us home.


There is an article on the Banditos and a photo of this route in a climbing mag from the late 90s(?) The pin is clearly visible, with the leader hanging from it, presumably on the FA.

P.S. The minute details of this story have been dragged from an addled brain, and may be slightly off. After all, it is a Bandito route...

P.P.S. Baillie's Old Man of Hoy trip is in Tom Patey's "One Man's Mountains". This is a wonderful book, a must- read.
By Charles Vernon
From: Tucson, AZ
Sep 4, 2003

Russell, nice history, but I believe you're thinking of Rusty Baillie's FA of the Dragon Route on the Painted Wall in the Black Canyon, rather than the Rainbow Wall.
By Steve "Crusher" Bartlett
Nov 14, 2003

A couple notes:1. When I climbed this last year, as Stu Ritchie and got our stuff together in the parking lot, a family in a sedan pulled up next to us. The woman driving got out and told us her Dad had been up there in the 1940s or thereabouts. Apparently he and his drilling buddies dragged a large drill pipe up there and leaned it against the hat, and shimmied up it. I wish I'd gotten the guy's name. Royal Robbins supposedly found a cairn on top, so this does actually makes sense.

On returning to the Hat this week, someone had drilled a baby angle, three feet off the ground, straight into the vertical graffiti-covered rock face under the Bandito route. Why? Scores of parties have managed fine for decades, why drill a pin now? Perhaps the person placing this steadied him/herself by leaning off a cam in the perfect horizontal slot about one foot above this new pin. When we did route this I recall Stu crawling around the neck and tying off the whole neck. Is this so hard to do?Maybe this helps the belayer for the free route (Jeff Achey's route I believe), or maybe this helps folks shave seconds off their time. No big deal really, except for many non-climbers go up to this ledge. If I were a non-climber, I would really wonder what was up with a pin drilled three feet up. I'd be tempted to equate climbers with the graffiti artists who have chipped their names, and treat the very same chunk of rock (and other people visiting it) with such disdain.
By Andrew Winslow
Jun 7, 2004

This is the greatest and best route in the world. That is all.
By amanda
Oct 28, 2004

Did it this may. Stopped the rafts on our river trip of the San Juan, walked up the hill and clipped the bolts. Lots of fun (but not climbing in any sense) and I wore a giant sombrero straight from ole Mey'hico. Sweet, sweet shade.
By Joseph Proulx
Nov 17, 2004

Class 3 A0. Maybe the only one in the world of the grade. Does that make it 3 stars?

Don't have the second reclimb it - just leave the etrier on the SECOND bolt so the second can get the weight off the first bolt. Note the angle of the quickdraw in my photo. I had to just haul on the draw to unclip the rope, and then (after some swinging) grab the bolt to unclip the qd. That sucked.

I led this route the next year (last March; 2004) and left the etrier on bolt 2, and the second (Chris Meloche, this time) said he had no problem jugging up. After the first bolt, there's no problem with the overhang.

Fun route for the novelty and the incredible views of the San Juan River, Cedar Mesa, Monument Valley, the Navajo Tapestry, etc. Make sure you take a good look at all the big, round sandstone slabs littering the valley floor around the Hat, and then at the crossbedded gypsum in the layer supporting the Hat. Hmmm.....
By Peter Holcombe
May 10, 2005

I climbed the Bandito Route again last week. A fun roadside distraction. I just wanted to post that the FIRST BOLT is VERY LOOSE. It is spinning in the hole and should be considered suspect. If it blows and the belayer has no belay anchor (as I have witnessed, Unfortunately) the outcome could be grim.PLEASE USE AN ANCHOR ON THE LEDGE. This is a short easy climb but a fall from the ledge to the parking lot would suck.

Have fun, be smart.
By Anonymous Coward
May 11, 2005

Bypass the shifty bolt with a hiking pole you carried up the hill for just that purpose. Bring a cam or 2 (red and yellow camalot?) for the belay. Someone should pull that "belay" angle and patch the hole.
By Vince MacMillan
From: Dolores, CO
Feb 20, 2007

Sixth Class Bouldering at its finest. Better bring a stick from home though, as there are not many to be found out in that country. For me: I have been carrying my fishing pole around on my rack for years, knowing that, in spite of the repeated protests of my climbing partners, someday it would come in handy. Thanks Mexican Hat, thanks for giving me my first aid lead. I will always remember you. . . .
By Frosty Weller
From: Colorado
Mar 20, 2007

Question: Does this Hat Thingy count toward my list of Desert Towers? I vote yes! :-)
By Ben Kiessel
Mar 20, 2007

Hell yes it counts!
By toddgordon
From: Joshua Tree, California
Apr 25, 2007

When I first did this route in the early 1980', one of the Bandito bolts came out with my body weight;.....I walked back to my toyota truck, got a baby angle , and whacked it in the empty hole; I can't remember if it was the 1st or 2nd bolt;.....I did this climb many more times, and my angle was still in;.....I don't know if it still is;.......always a fun stop off when in the area.
By Jesse Morehouse
From: CO
May 30, 2008

More a stunt than a climb but should be on everyone's "must do" list!
By Eric Odenthal
Nov 29, 2008

on my way to california i decided to tick this tower... after finding the parking and heading to the base I saw a pin and heard to tie off the neck as an anchor. I used a stick clip for the first pin, realized the second pin was a ways off, then realized i was on the route left of the bolt ladder. i came down, reset the anchor and went off on the bolt ladder. an awesome summit... great view of the desert and tower that you can't climb. bummer. was looking forward to seeing the grenade and bottle... it was gone. nothing up there but an empty bottle of beer. bailed as the rain came in. fun!
By Doug Benton
From: Sandy, UT
May 13, 2009

Looks like the first bolt is becoming a little bit of a spinner again. You can see next to the current first bolt where an old bolt was hacked. The spinner held for me, but wanted to let folks know to be cautious.

Rap anchors area solid!

Also, I saw another bolt line about 20 feet or so north from Bandito Route. I think there are two separate bolt ladders now?! One the Bandito route and the other looks recent?! The fixed pin is still at the base and seemed solid enough to clip as part of an anchor for a solo ascent.

Overall, fun experience and cool view!
By Ryan A. Ray
From: Keller, TX
Oct 23, 2010
rating: C0 PG13

as of this last week all bolts on this thing were bomber. Still a leeper hanger on two of the bolts, but they were bomber. Looks like the asca replaced the top anchors. They had red ASCA Fixe hangers on the top anchors and rap anchors, and there were rap chains and rings on the rap anchors. To bad the bolt hangers on this and the route just north of it are not cammo, because they are clearly visible from the road below and a blatant eyesore. Was happy there was no trash on the summit. Only a cheasy geo cache and a bottle of wisky. Had fun. A must do if you have an hour to kill while in the area. It was my friend Rich's first desert summit. Had a blast watching him.
By paul bucher
From: moab, utah
Jun 13, 2012

as of 6-9-12, first bolt is spinning big time, sketch, second one good, third and fifth are old with old hangers. four was good and five was a spinner. stuff on top was bomber modern. broomstick seemed mando to me. didn't see anything lower or chopped and at 5'11" i was reaching with fully extended arms from the end of our stick. 1 drilled piton for belay. sic and must do fun.
By Roy Suggett
Apr 3, 2013

That was fun to do on the way out of VOTGs! But who took the bottle and grenade I was so hoping to see! What a bummer!