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YDS: 5.9 French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI ZA: 17 British: HVS 5a

Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 80'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.9 French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI ZA: 17 British: HVS 5a [details]
FA: Michael Hartrich & Al Rubin Summer, 1973
Season: spring through fall
Page Views: 564
Submitted By: jason seaver on Sep 14, 2008

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (6)
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This is one of the better single pitch jamcracks of its grade in the Mount Washingtom Valley. Continuous hand-jamming up a round edged crack in a big left-facing dihedral. Exit left to a ledge before the top of the cliff, where you can rap off a tree with one rope, or continue to the top and bushwhack right to walk off.


On the right end of the cliff, 50 feet or so right of the route Three Wogs, where the approach "trail" reaches the crag. Three Wogs is identifiable by three spaced bolts in a shallow groove. You can't miss Bandit if you're on the right side of the cliff.


There are a few pitons but it takes bomber gear the whole way. Rap off a tree on a ledge before topping out, or walk off right.

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By john strand
From: southern colo
Sep 24, 2008

Agreed, this would be considered a classic on Cathedral (Barber Wall) and would get done a LOT. Al Rubin told me that when they did the F/A,he didn't even know that Band M was there and it seemed real remote.
By matthew ritter
From: West Campton, New Hampshire
Apr 21, 2009

A great pitch on great rock. there is a double bolt anchor if you follow the upper low angle hand crack to a small ledge instead of escaping left.

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