|The Old Woman - West Face
Start off a block and make funky, unprotected 5.10 moves to a high first bolt which you'll be glad to clip as there are some thin moves above the bolt climbing up to a small roof (pro possible here). After the roof pass a horizontal crack and then continue up well protected face past two more bolts. A small cam will fit in a horizontal after the last bolt and protect the finishing moves to a ledge. Scramble left to rap anchors atop Double Cross, or alternately it's possible to traverse left in a horizontal and reach the Sexy Grandma anchors.
A fun route that would be a lot more popular lead if it had some decent pro at the start. This is one climb you probably won't be waiting in line for and a good climb to do when on this side of the rock.
Located on the west side of The Old Woman, about 25' right of Double Cross and 10' right of Sexy Grandma.
3 bolts (3/8"), pro to 3"
From: Sacramento, CA
Oct 26, 2004
The bolts have been replaced with modern hardware. A fall, however, before clipping the first bolt would likely result in a visit to the hospital. There is currently a bolt hole right off the deck that *might* offer some protection using a removable bolt. The moves in reaching the first bolt are definitely solid 5.10.
|By Ryan Watts|
From: Bishop, CA
Feb 13, 2014
How many people have actually onsight lead this route? Sure the bottom is "only" 5.10 but it's pretty thin and sequential.
The only way I could see it being reasonable to lead is if you had the moves to the first bolt totally wired. Maybe I'm just chicken...
|By Bob Gaines|
Feb 13, 2014
rating: 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b R
Led it onsight back in the day (1980's). I remember the scariest part was a cruel surprise when I got to the last bolt, a 1/4 inch spinner hanging over 1/2 way out of it's hole, and I wasn't sure how hard the rest of the grainy slab was.
After we put up Sexy Grandma the route became very popular to TR off the Sexy Grandma anchor, and the graininess is gone. Even though now I have it ruthlessly wired, don't think I'll be leading this one unless someone retros a bolt for the start. Maybe ask permission from Charles Cole?
I think someone added a bolt, it got chopped, but the hole remained. For a while there was a fixed removeable bolt (swaged cable and all) hanging out of the hole, but it's long gone.