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Band of Gypsys 

YDS: 5.12b French: 7b Ewbanks: 26 UIAA: VIII+ British: E5 6b

   
Type:  Sport, 1 pitch, 130'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.12b French: 7b Ewbanks: 26 UIAA: VIII+ British: E5 6b [details]
FA: Dan McQuade
Season: not winter
Page Views: 251
Submitted By: Darren in Vegas on Aug 3, 2012
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Seth stemming like mad on the sustained Band of Gy...

Description 

When originally done, this route was said to be 2 pitches. These days the route usually gets done in one long pitch. Don't worry if you don't have an 80 meter rope, since there is an anchor in the middle of the route.

The route starts at a crack in a corner that leads up to a large pod about 25 feet up, where you will find the first bolt. The climbing is easy, but if you are nervous about the first bolt being so high, the crack would take some gear.
Once at the first bolt, turn onto the face with some tough moves. If you do the route in two pitches, this would be the crux of the first pitch. From here climb up past three more bolts to the small stance below the head wall.

Once here, climb up past 12 more bolts up through a killer sustained section of sidepulls and stemming.


Location 

This route is located on the left hand side of the alcove, across from Five Finger Discount.


Protection 

If done in one pitch 17 bolts to a two bolt station.



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A good view of the whole route.
A good view of the whole route.
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