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Band of Gypsies 

YDS: 5.8+ French: 5b Ewbanks: 16 UIAA: VI- ZA: 15 British: HVS 4c

   
Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 60'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.8 French: 5b Ewbanks: 16 UIAA: VI- ZA: 15 British: HVS 4c [details]
FA: D. Hoffman
New Route: Yes
Page Views: 639
Submitted By: Dean Hoffman on May 7, 2013

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Description 

An overlooked gear route that will clean up quite nicely with time. Angling up and left, climb carefully through friable rock with good gear. Use long slings and step left at the small bulge/roof. Don't touch the chock stones, they're not coming out but will distract you! Continue trending left into the thin crack, good gear is there be patient, step left onto the face and move delicately up to the anchors. DON'T STEAL THE ANCHOR BINERS!

Location 

Right of Steel Reserve and Jungle Buzzard, obvious left trending crack system out small bulge/roof on suspect looking rock...

Protection 

Doubles from .4 to #2 Camalot, one #3, singles in C3s... Long slings,


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By Dean Hoffman
May 7, 2013

Okay, so there is still some friable rock in the first 1/4 and last 1/4 of the route and some dirt on some key holds... I cleaned a ton of plate glass type rock off the upper section, but there is still more around. That being said I think this will clean up nicely with some traffic and weather. Don't let that deter you, it's a fun moderate that I think everyone can enjoy!
By Darren Mabe
From: Flagstaff, AZ
Oct 27, 2013
rating: 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c

Best 5.8 trad route at the jungle!