Sunny and Buggy- but it gets better up high. I would not climb here in the spring. Good rock overall and some really WILD climbs. Nightflyer, Sacred Space and of course Heavy Weather Sailing are really out there !!! This is a complicated cliff and finding routes can be tough, hang in there, they are worth it !
South of Conway Village a couple of miles to the junction off #113 and #16. On the left is Coleman ? sand and gravel works, the cliff is at the south end of these pits, it can also be viewed from #113.
I knew the left side climbs under the butcher block stayed dry, but I was out there this past saturday (torrential downpour) expecting the worst and ended up with the best. All five climbs were dry enough to get on and have fun with.
JUST AS A WARNING!!!!! The sand and gravel company has placed a new gate at band m before the old gate/parking area, its pretty wise to park as far out of the road as possible when climbing there. If possible stick to climbing there on weekends when the gravel pit is closed.
I noticed the cliff from Rt113 last weekend and did not realize it was Band M. Rt16/Rt113 junction is just over two hours drive from Bos with light traffic. How long is the hike in? Looked like there might be parking on the side of Rt113 before intersection with Rt16. Yes?
From the intersection go through the "yard" of the sand and gravel company on gravel road, once the "improved" road ends as it turns right to a pit, continue straight. We asked at another gate about access and the woman there directed to this road and said it was okay to drive on just don't block anything. You may want to double-check at the office at the intersection. When we were there, there were no gates that would have locked us in. That may have changed.
Eventually, at the bottom of a relatively steep slope near an abandoned granite quarry on the right it became a bit much for the Subaru. Parked, hiked up hill, do not take the road to the right, continue as the road curves left and levels off. Look up right to see cliff and bushwhack up. A couple of years ago a made a small cairn to mark the easier path up. May or may not still be there.
According to Joe Cote, “There is a common misconception that has been perpetuated in some guidebooks about the name of Band M Ledge. It was not a mistake, as some believe. While it is true that there are AMC maps with "B and M Railroad" in close proximity to the ledge, the USGS 1958 topo for the Ossipee Lake quandrangle clearly identifies Band M Ledge, its sister Whitton Ledge, as well as the Boston and Maine RR”
I went back up to Band M just the other day August 24 , 2013 with my old partner to climb general hospital A3 ... The last time I soloed the route in 2000 I left a couple more fixed pieces and was happy to still see them in place :) the bashie down low and the nut up in the overhang crack , I did notice that someone did nail this very fragile climb harder then needed and blew out some spots with large flakes blown off the climb! This makes aid moves very hard in some spots :( another bolt will have to be added to the upper destroyed flake . Sadly I've noticed a lot of this bad pin work on the nail ups on cathedral as well :( I've returned to Band M to finish my aid climb on the far left side of the cliff past heavy weather sailing . I had started this climb some 13 years ago and will be posting pictures and finishing this A3 nail up this Memorial Day weekend so keep posted :)
By E thatcher From: Plymouth/ North Conway (NH) Aug 25, 2013
Ben, are you aware the cliff is closed by the land owners? Unless something has changed, your threatening the potential reopening by not heeding the current closure. Something to consider...