Banana  5.9

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Type:  Trad, 2 pitches, 160 feet Consensus:  5.9 [details] FA:  Unknown Submitted By:  Bill Kelly on Oct 24, 2010 You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (2) Your todo list: Your stars: Your rating: -none- [change] Your ticklist: [add new tick]

BETA PHOTO: The Banana route ascends the left side (center of ...

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Seasonal Raptor Closure MORE INFO >>> Peregrine Falcons nest seasonally at Lover's Leap. During the closure period, please avoid the areas displayed on the map posted below. A closure will be in place at the center of the wall starting April 1, 2012 to September 30, 2012. A detailed listing of closed routes and any changes in the information regarding the peregrine falcons will be posted on the Eldorado National Forest website www.fs.fed.us/r5/eldorado. If you require addition information contact Susan Yasuda, District Wildlife Biologist on the Placerville Ranger District at 530-647-5311. Here's a map: 2009 Closure Map Submitted By: Amy Ansari on Jun 15, 2009 This information is a public crowdsourcing effort between the Access Fund, and Mountain Project. You should confirm closures, restrictions, and/or related dates. Keeping climbing areas open and conserving the climbing environment

Description 

Where's the crux? For pitch 1, it is just before moving into the OW. For pitch 2, it is the hand crack above the chimney.

What's good? It's adventurous. When it's cleaned up through use, it will be more popular. It gets you high, offers great views. Protects well. Also sets you up for toproping nearby routes.

What's bad? It's pretty dirty, you have to work through some brush, dirt, lichen to accomplish the pitches. (Some climbers take to these conditions less than others.)

NOTE: After exiting chimney at the start of the second pitch, one challenge is to manage the rope so it doesn't get stuck in the narrowing, constricting, overhanging section of the crack.

Location 

Approx. 100 meters climber's right of Hospital Corner area. The Banana is climber's right of Third Stone.

Protection 

Route protects well. I found a 4 and 5 camelot helpful. First, in the dirty offwidth of pitch 1, later high up in the chimney at the start of pitch 2. Either belay in the chimney or, if you like to run it out, keep going. There's a fixed pin in there that can be backed up. You can rap from this location easily with a 70m.

After Pitch 2, you can top out or rap from a prominent tree above West Wall. See picture. I've always rapped. There is an intermediate rap station. Two raps to ground.

Good news. Several large loose blocks and flakes have been trundled recently in the area. Makes for much more peace of mind. Third Stone and Banana share the same belay stance for first pitch.

Photos of Banana Slideshow

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Looking down on Pitch 1 of the Banana from the bel...	BETA PHOTO: Used a #5 (older model, it is larger than C4...	The Banana 5.8