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BETA PHOTO: Green Line is Banana Roof 13a. Red line is Creampi...
The most consistently difficult multi pitch sport route in Rock Canyon, and maybe of the Wasatch Range? Could be. But, Bad Bananas has been long overdue for a route of this nature. This climb is all bolted, with each pitch having a very distinct roof or overhanging section. Great exposure on a steep wall with great climbing that is way off the deck make this route, well... great!
Overall the rock quality is good. The first and last pitch have a few small sections of not so good rock, but the 2nd and 3rd pitches have some of the best quality quartzite in the canyon. No joke.
Pitch 1 - 12a. Start on the first 2 bolts of Bufugly and climb straight out the cave through steep terrain on positive holds, which is also known as Chiquita. Just sticking the first move off the deck is probably the crux of this pitch. Just over the roof you will see a small set of anchors that are for climbing Chiquita. Clip one and continue up more moderately priced terrain that leads to the belay, which is directly under a large block roof that is the second pitch.
Pitch 2 - 13a. Climbs through the obvious large block roof. This is the shortest, steepest pitch of the route and is kinda bouldery. Crazy Egyptian like climbing leads to a throw to a rounded horn, then a couple traverse moves right on small edges take you to a killer pull down move to an edge at the lip of the roof. A hidden pocket and then a couple more pulls and you're to the belay. It is helpful to have longer draws on bolts 4 and 6. With a 70 meter rope you can rap off to the ground from the belay of this pitch if you needed to.
Pitch 3 - 12b. This pitch starts by climbing this amazing overhung arete that has lots of slopers, pinches, blocky crimps, and heel hooks. After gaining the ledge, the route angles up and left to the belay on easier terrain. The Belay is on a nice flat and large ledge. Perfect for taking a rest before the last pitch.
Pitch 4 - 12b. Maybe 12c. Needs more consensus. This pitch turned out to be quite an epic of pump. Small crimps, sidepulls, and gastons go through a dihedral that is capped off by a small roof, and then continue relentlessly to a nice rest at about mid point of the pitch. But it's not over yet. Above is a large roof that is quite the dilemma to pull. Especially when you are pumped! Then it's cruiser climbing to the top. Long quickdraws and runners are very helpful on this pitch to reduce the drag.
Indicated by the green route in the topo. Starts on Chiquita, 12a, which is also the same start as Bufugly. See the single pitch sport climbing topo for details on those routes.
It is best to walk off the top. Head northeast on a distinct trail that heads down into the large talus filled gully. Look for a small, hard to see cut off trail that goes over to the Superbowl wall. Most of the time it is marked by cairns. You may want to haul up your approach shoes for the descent. It is not climbing shoe friendly.
A set of 24 quickdraws. You may want a couple 2' runner lengths, as well as have longer length draws to keep the drag down.
Also, because of the severely overhanging nature of this route, the climber following will need a daisy (adjustable is better), and a small ascender with a pocket aider. To prevent swinging way out into space, when you're feeling like you cant make a move, grab a draw and clip in. If you do come off, you will be way out in space and will want the ascender to get back on the wall.
Also, when belaying the the follower, clip their end into the anchor and then belay off your harness. If they need tension quickly or need to hoist up a foot or two, this method works better than having them belayed directly off the anchor.
The entire route is bolted with each belay having chains.