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Banana Dance 

YDS: 5.11d French: 7a Ewbanks: 24 UIAA: VIII ZA: 25 British: E5 6a

Type:  Sport, 40'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.11d French: 7a Ewbanks: 24 UIAA: VIII ZA: 25 British: E5 6a [details]
FA: T. Perkins, J. Visser
Page Views: 3,974
Submitted By: grk10vq on Mar 13, 2009

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (79)
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Joshua Moreland on Banana Dance.


Big holds and even bigger moves describe this athletic route. Banana Dance climbs an ever steepening overhang through jugs and deep edges. Lunge, throw, pull, and pump your way up this one.

Wear your tighty whities or tape accordingly.


Banana Dance is located directly in the middle of the wall on the right side of the large cave.


Seven draws + anchors

Photos of Banana Dance Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: DB on 'Banana Dance'
DB on 'Banana Dance'
Rock Climbing Photo: December 2009
December 2009
Rock Climbing Photo: Banana Dance, Sent December of 2009
Banana Dance, Sent December of 2009
Rock Climbing Photo: NY pulling through the crux
NY pulling through the crux
Rock Climbing Photo: Very picturesque route!
Very picturesque route!
Rock Climbing Photo: Ben earning a redpoint on the crazy route Banana D...
Ben earning a redpoint on the crazy route Banana D...
Rock Climbing Photo: This route is too fun!
This route is too fun!

Comments on Banana Dance Add Comment
Show which comments
By J. Snyder
From: Flagstaff, Arizona
Nov 29, 2015

ANCHOR CONDITION: On 11.27.2015 the left anchor bolt, a glue in, broke free resulting in a near miss by my partner. Does not appear bolt pulled out but rather rock was levered off and crumbled causing bolt failure. Currently there is only one bolt remaining at the top. Not certain of other options with current setups at the top.

Edit: Here is a write up of the event.
By MonicaRose
From: Las Vegas, NV
Feb 1, 2016

Does anyone have updates on the condition of the anchor bolts? Has the broken anchor since then been replaced?
By Bad Sock Puppet
Dec 19, 2009
rating: 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a

A truly sick climb! I thought the beginning was the hardest part with the crux somewhere around the third clip. Big throws from jug to jug. Lots of heelhooks makes for good rests, plus with a bomber hold everytime you need one you should send this easily.
By mattjbudd
From: West Valley, UT
Apr 4, 2010
rating: 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a

Absolutely an amazing route! I love the sequencing! I felt it was a little soft for a 5.11d. Nothing seemed too hard.

By jeffozozo
From: santa clara, utah
Oct 1, 2010
rating: 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a

nice video, matt.
By Tyler W
From: Utah
Mar 16, 2013
rating: 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a

Amazing route! Hard moves in the beginning section to the third bolt and clipping those tiny anchor chains was an enormous pain.
By jeffozozo
From: santa clara, utah
Aug 28, 2014
rating: 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a

This route is truly amazing. The holds are big and positive, the bolts are close together and the movement is unique and totally fun. The holds stay big after you turn the lip, so you can rest up a little before you go for the chains. The comment about clipping the small chains is true. would anyone object if I added a quick-link to that right hand side?
By B Roth
From: st george, ut
Sep 30, 2014

Adding a stainless steel quick link is a bad idea unless the chain, hanger, and bolt are stainless as well. The mixture of stainless and plated steel will cause galvanic corrosion and the anchor will likely start rusting the next time it gets wet.

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