Ban-y-Gor Rocks Rock Climbing
The Wye valley's best sport crag, with a good collection of routes in the 5.11s and .12s. Although there are also some traditional routes, the bolted lines are the main attraction here, and some of the old trad routes have been recently retro-bolted. The rock is natural limestone, steep for the most part, with some truly awesome roof climbing around the Crawl Area and the Main Wall.
At the right hand end (first encountered on the approach) the escarpment is pretty short and divided into a series of buttresses, rather than a continuous cliff. Further on, you encounter the Crawl area, which rises to about 20m before being broken again by a wide gully. Finally, you get to the Main Wall, which is the most continuous section of the crag and (at up to 25m) the tallest.
Because of this quite complicated layout, this page is best broken down into smaller areas. Currently, these are as follows, though it will probably be necessary to change/add to them as the routes get filled in:
Right-hand escarpment Crawl Area Main Wall
Ban-y-gor is a popular summer venue due to its northerly aspect and the shade offered by trees, though once you climb above the tree cover you can catch some evening sun.
From Chepstow follow the A48 towards Gloucester then take a left shortly after crossing the river, signposted to Woodcroft. Pass the Rising Sun Inn then take the next left onto Lancaut Lane. Parking is available in a few small laybys on the left. From here, walk a short way further down Lancaut Lane before a fairly good footpath leaves the road on the right. About 500m along this is the right end of the crag.
Climbing Season For the England area.
Weather station 11.3 miles from here
3 Total Climbing Routes
['4 Stars',1],['3 Stars',1],['2 Stars',1],['1 Star',0],['Bomb',0]
Featured Route For Ban-y-Gor Rocks
Good 'Jab' 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a Europe
: United Kingdom
: ... : Crawl Area
Named with the American accent in mind, presumably a visiting US climber was in some way involved with the FA.Good 'Jab' is the counterpart of Latest Craze, based on (but not often using) the same arete but on its left side. The route starts with a bit of a grovel to gain the short corner about 3m left of the arete. A stemmed rest and the second bolt is the reward for that inelegant manoeuvre. Continue to stem up the corner, mostly in balance, before making a stretch rightwards to clip bolt 3 th...[more] Browse More Classics in International