Ban-y-Gor Rocks Rock Climbing
The Wye valley's best sport crag, with a good collection of routes in the 5.11s and .12s. Although there are also some traditional routes, the bolted lines are the main attraction here, and some of the old trad routes have been recently retro-bolted. The rock is natural limestone, steep for the most part, with some truly awesome roof climbing around the Crawl Area and the Main Wall.
At the right hand end (first encountered on the approach) the escarpment is pretty short and divided into a series of buttresses, rather than a continuous cliff. Further on, you encounter the Crawl area, which rises to about 20m before being broken again by a wide gully. Finally, you get to the Main Wall, which is the most continuous section of the crag and (at up to 25m) the tallest.
Because of this quite complicated layout, this page is best broken down into smaller areas. Currently, these are as follows, though it will probably be necessary to change/add to them as the routes get filled in:
Right-hand escarpment Crawl Area Main Wall
Ban-y-gor is a popular summer venue due to its northerly aspect and the shade offered by trees, though once you climb above the tree cover you can catch some evening sun.
From Chepstow follow the A48 towards Gloucester then take a left shortly after crossing the river, signposted to Woodcroft. Pass the Rising Sun Inn then take the next left onto Lancaut Lane. Parking is available in a few small laybys on the left. From here, walk a short way further down Lancaut Lane before a fairly good footpath leaves the road on the right. About 500m along this is the right end of the crag.
Climbing Season For the England area.
Weather station 11.3 miles from here
3 Total Climbing Routes
['4 Stars',1],['3 Stars',1],['2 Stars',1],['1 Star',0],['Bomb',0]
Featured Route For Ban-y-Gor Rocks
Latest Craze 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b Europe
: United Kingdom
: ... : Crawl Area
One of the crags most classic routes, powerful and delicate in turn, with insecure moves up the photogenic arete bounding the right side of the Crawl Wall.Start about 4m right of the arete, with a few strenuous pulls to gain a good pinch and clip the second bolt. Now make a big span leftwards to gain the arete, using good sidepulls but not much for the feet.The position on the arete is not quite a rest, but take a few moments to shake out before launching up the arete. A heel-hook on a good ledg...[more] Browse More Classics in International