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The first bolt is fairly high (at least compared to other routes at Enchanted tower) but is easily reached. After the first bolt, the climb becomes steepr and follows up a heavily pocketed black-streak. Finding the good holds in this streak is the primary difficulty (They aren't yet excessively chalked).
This is the middle route of the three currently on this wall.
4 bolts to anchor. Anchor is a single bolt, and a stud with a wire on it. The bolt has an old locking biner on it which at the time of this writing is permanently stuck locked. Another biner was left at the top which connects the wire to the locking biner.
|By Dave Wachter|
Oct 27, 2009
Lower part is exfoliating in big chunks. If you're going to climb this route, do NOT pull on any of the lighter colored rock to the left of the first bolt. Best to stick clip, as the footholds are suspect until you get beyond the first bolt. Belayer should stack the rope right up against the wall, so it doesn't get a huge rock crashing down on it, like ours did - and prepare to dodge. Some good pocket pulling through the mid section (for around 20 feet), then you have to deal with a very poorly arranged anchor system. There's a wired nut threaded over a bolt with a single, non-locking carabiner, and if you traverse left around 8 feet to the top of the adjacent climb (not listed here), there's an old gummed-up locking biner on some rusty chains.
Despite the good climbing in the middle of this route, I'd avoid it, and opt for the much better routes on the Sleeping Beauty wall, which climb like the mid-section of this route.
|By Bob Broilo|
From: Socorro, NM
Jun 21, 2010
rating: 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ E3 5c
Lower part seems cleaner now. However, removed biner from anchor to the left. Glue had failed, causing biner to get stuck in locked position. Then noticed that the gate had a big crack in it. Bring draws for top.