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Balvenie T 
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Balvenie 

YDS: 5.9 French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI ZA: 17 British: HVS 5a

   
Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 90'
Original:  YDS: 5.9 French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI ZA: 17 British: HVS 5a [details]
FA: Scott Ayers, Matt Ciancio, Aug 2001
Page Views: 55
Submitted By: Euan Cameron on Jul 8, 2007

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (5)
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BETA PHOTO: Balvenie, 5.9

Description 

Climb the short wall (2 bolts), to gain entry to the green right facing corner.

Stem up the corner which is well protected, until a reach out right to bigger holds signals the end of the difficulties.

Continue on up easier ground to the anchors.

Location 

Obvious green corner at the right side of the crag.

Protection 

2 bolts, gear to 2", Rappel Bolt and chain anchor


Photos of Balvenie Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: Leading up the crux corner of Balvenie, 5.9
Leading up the crux corner of Balvenie, 5.9
Rock Climbing Photo: Julie finishing the crux moves on Balvenie, 5.9
Julie finishing the crux moves on Balvenie, 5.9
Rock Climbing Photo: Bryan stretching out on Balvenie (5.9), Crystal Cr...
Bryan stretching out on Balvenie (5.9), Crystal Cr...

Comments on Balvenie Add Comment
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By Euan Cameron
Administrator
From: Redlands and Mammoth Lakes
Jul 8, 2007

Kinda an oddity, since you'll need to bring your trad gear to this sport crag. If you can be bothered to carry the gear the climb is worth it.
By C Miller
Administrator
Sep 10, 2007
rating: 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a PG13

Poorly bolted at the start as you traverse far right to an arete (where the holds are) and then cut back left - this could have been done with just one bolt. There's lots of good stemming in the right-facing corner higher, but the gear is a bit scarce for a short section above the ledge. Overall a decent route to warm-up for the more difficult ones nearby.
By MisterE
From: Bishop, CA
Jul 5, 2016

Did this climb today - super fun and techy dihedral. I disagree with CMiller (above) in that I thought the initial sequence was bolted well.

I also thought it was way better than the one star everyone heretofore has given it.

The guidebook says "gear to 2 inches" - that's not right by my measure.

The largest piece I used was a .5" - I would suggest doubles on small TCU's, as well as a larger stopper or two.

I would agree with the PG-13 rating off the ledge - if you are taller, a better #0 TCU option lies above my reach from the solid stance.

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