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g. V3 - Middle Earth
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
Absurdland T 
Alley Oop T 
Badfinger T 
Balrog T 
Beyond the Fringe T 
Blunderbus T,TR 
Bombs Away Dream Baby T 
Bullfrog T 
Cakewalk T 
Cheap Thrills T 
City Streets T 
Commando Rave T 
Country Roads T 
Dat-Mantel T 
Dis-Mantel T 
Dry Heaves T 
Faithful Journey T 
Gory Thumb T 
J'accuse T 
Middle Earth T 
Never Never Land T 
Never Say Never T,TR 
Nevermore T 
On Any Monday T 
Raunchy T 
Red's Ruin T 
Sente T 
Snake T 
Snowpatch T 
Talus of Powder T 
Thin Slabs / Thin Slabs Direct T 
Triangle T 
Turdland T 
V-3 T 
Wild Horses T 
Wisecrack T 
Wonderland T 
Yenta TR 


YDS: 5.10b French: 6a+ Ewbanks: 19 UIAA: VII- ZA: 19 British: E2 5b

Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 75'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.10b French: 6a+ Ewbanks: 19 UIAA: VII- ZA: 19 British: E2 5b [details]
FA: Jim McCarthy, Rich Goldstone
Page Views: 3,988
Submitted By: Josh Janes on Feb 17, 2007

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (48)
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Almost there.

Seasonal Raptor Closure from Moondance to After the Prick MORE INFO >>>


Begin just down and left of the pillar/ledge from which Alley Oop and Dry Heaves start.

Climb up cracks aiming for the huge, hanging, right-facing corner. Pull up into this corner (crux), and continue to an anchor.


Standard rack.

Photos of Balrog Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: Simon on Balrog
Simon on Balrog
Rock Climbing Photo: Mark Mooradian on the approach.
Mark Mooradian on the approach.
Rock Climbing Photo: Jeff Arliss contemplating the crux.
Jeff Arliss contemplating the crux.
Rock Climbing Photo: moving into the crux
moving into the crux
Rock Climbing Photo: Balrog
Rock Climbing Photo: Just after the crux.
Just after the crux.
Rock Climbing Photo: chris vultaggio on balrog
chris vultaggio on balrog
Rock Climbing Photo: Tricia at the Balrog crux.
Tricia at the Balrog crux.
Rock Climbing Photo: Placing gear at the crux ... fun climb!
Placing gear at the crux ... fun climb!

Comments on Balrog Add Comment
Show which comments
By gblauer
From: Wayne, PA
Jun 21, 2010

Finally, a gunks climb that works better for shorties. One move wonder.
By BrianRH
From: Jersey City, NJ
Aug 15, 2011

Some solid 5.8 moves get you to the crux. Protection at the crux is bomber. Williams' description is about right: if you get the sequence wrong, you can easily make this 5.10 crux into a 5.11. Take your time and figure it out. Also the route is about 75 ft, not 750 ft...
By Simon Thompson
From: New Paltz, NY
Oct 20, 2013
rating: 5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b

Sweet climb. The crux is hard to onsight if you're climbing near your limit but you get a great rest to figure it out from and the gear is bomber.
By kevin neville
From: Somerville, MA
May 27, 2014
rating: 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b

There's currently a fixed nut at the crux. Totally G-rated.
By Pawel
From: WA
Sep 22, 2014
rating: 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b

No fixed gear as of 9/14. Crux super well protected but bring small stuff (000 C3 or wires) for the vertical crack below the roof.

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