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Just after the crux.
Begin just down and left of the pillar/ledge from which Alley Oop and Dry Heaves start.
Climb up cracks aiming for the huge, hanging, right-facing corner. Pull up into this corner (crux), and continue to an anchor.
Mark Mooradian on the approach.
Jeff Arliss contemplating the crux.
Tricia at the Balrog crux.
BETA PHOTO: Balrog
moving into the crux
From: Wayne, PA
Jun 21, 2010
Finally, a gunks climb that works better for shorties. One move wonder.
Aug 15, 2011
Williams' description is about right: if you get the sequence wrong, you can easily make this 5.10 crux into a 5.11. Take your time and figure it out.