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Balrog 
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Middle Earth 
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On Any Monday 
Raunchy 
Red's Ruin 
Sente 
Snake 
Talus of Powder 
Thin Slabs / Thin Slabs Direct 
Triangle 
Turdland 
V-3 
Wild Horses 
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Wonderland 

Balrog 

5.10b

   
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Type: Trad, 1 pitch, 750 feet
Consensus: 5.10b [details]
FA: Jim McCarthy, Rich Goldstone
Submitted By: Josh Janes on Feb 17, 2007

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (25)
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Just after the crux.

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Description 

Begin just down and left of the pillar/ledge from which Alley Oop and Dry Heaves start.

Climb up cracks aiming for the huge, hanging, right-facing corner. Pull up into this corner (crux), and continue to an anchor.


Protection 

Standard rack.



Photos of Balrog Slideshow Add Photo
Mark Mooradian on the approach.

Mark Mooradian on the approach.

Jeff Arliss contemplating the crux.

Jeff Arliss contemplating the crux.

Almost there.

Almost there.

Tricia at the Balrog crux.

Tricia at the Balrog crux.

Balrog

BETA PHOTO: Balrog

moving into the crux

moving into the crux


Comments on Balrog Add Comment
Show which comments
By gblauer
From: Wayne, PA
Jun 21, 2010

Finally, a gunks climb that works better for shorties. One move wonder.

By BrianRH
Aug 15, 2011

Williams' description is about right: if you get the sequence wrong, you can easily make this 5.10 crux into a 5.11. Take your time and figure it out.