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Begin just down and left of the pillar/ledge from which Alley Oop and Dry Heaves start.
Climb up cracks aiming for the huge, hanging, right-facing corner. Pull up into this corner (crux), and continue to an anchor.
Mark Mooradian on the approach.
Jeff Arliss contemplating the crux.
Tricia at the Balrog crux.
BETA PHOTO: Balrog
moving into the crux
chris vultaggio on balrog
From: Wayne, PA
Jun 21, 2010
Finally, a gunks climb that works better for shorties. One move wonder.
Aug 15, 2011
Some solid 5.8 moves get you to the crux. Protection at the crux is bomber. Williams' description is about right: if you get the sequence wrong, you can easily make this 5.10 crux into a 5.11. Take your time and figure it out. Also the route is about 75 ft, not 750 ft...
|By Simon Thompson|
From: New Paltz, NY
Oct 20, 2013
rating: 5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ E2 5b
Sweet climb. The crux is hard to onsight if you're climbing near your limit but you get a great rest to figure it out from and the gear is bomber.