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g. V3 - Middle Earth
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Absurdland 
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Balrog 
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Faithful Journey 
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Middle Earth 
Never Never Land 
Never Say Never 
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On Any Monday 
Raunchy 
Red's Ruin 
Sente 
Snake 
Snowpatch 
Talus of Powder 
Thin Slabs / Thin Slabs Direct 
Triangle 
Turdland 
V-3 
Wild Horses 
Wisecrack 
Wonderland 

Balrog 

YDS: 5.10b French: 6a+ Ewbanks: 19 UIAA: VII- British: E2 5b

   
Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 75'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.10b French: 6a+ Ewbanks: 19 UIAA: VII- British: E2 5b [details]
FA: Jim McCarthy, Rich Goldstone
Page Views: 2,704
Submitted By: Josh Janes on Feb 17, 2007
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Simon on Balrog
Seasonal Falcon Closure MORE INFO >>>

Description 

Begin just down and left of the pillar/ledge from which Alley Oop and Dry Heaves start.

Climb up cracks aiming for the huge, hanging, right-facing corner. Pull up into this corner (crux), and continue to an anchor.


Protection 

Standard rack.



Photos of Balrog Slideshow Add Photo
Just after the crux.
Just after the crux.
moving into the crux
moving into the crux
Mark Mooradian on the approach.
Mark Mooradian on the approach.
Jeff Arliss contemplating the crux.
Jeff Arliss contemplating the crux.
Balrog
BETA PHOTO: Balrog
Almost there.
Almost there.
chris vultaggio on balrog
chris vultaggio on balrog
Tricia at the Balrog crux.
Tricia at the Balrog crux.
Comments on Balrog Add Comment
Show which comments
By gblauer
From: Wayne, PA
Jun 21, 2010

Finally, a gunks climb that works better for shorties. One move wonder.

By BrianRH
Aug 15, 2011

Some solid 5.8 moves get you to the crux. Protection at the crux is bomber. Williams' description is about right: if you get the sequence wrong, you can easily make this 5.10 crux into a 5.11. Take your time and figure it out. Also the route is about 75 ft, not 750 ft...

By Simon Thompson
From: New Paltz, NY
Oct 20, 2013
rating: 5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ E2 5b

Sweet climb. The crux is hard to onsight if you're climbing near your limit but you get a great rest to figure it out from and the gear is bomber.