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Ballarete 
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Sergeant Crumble 

Ballarete 

Hueco: V3-4 Font: 6A+

   
Type:  Boulder, 12'
Consensus:  Hueco: V3-4 Font: 6A+ [details]
FA: 
Season: Winter/Spring/Summer
Page Views: 210
Submitted By: Seth Derr on Jan 11, 2012

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Ballarete
Governor Stable requires membership or a paid pass. The Circuit Area is currnetly closed to all climbing while access to the area is negotiated. Please respect the closed / no tresspassing signs posted near the pyramid. The rest of GS proper remains open to members and daypass holders. MORE INFO >>>

Description 

There's a sit and a stand. The stand goes at V3, the sit at V4, although in my opinion the sit isn't all that difficult. The problem itself is a little contrived, as the giant jug out left is off. Apparently you have to stay near the arete. All that being said, it's a fun problem with some interesting balance. Try it.


Location 

In the warm-up area. The obvious arete on the scoop boulder


Protection 

A few pads will make you feel best. There's some weird body tension that makes it feel like if you blow the crux you'll be spit off in the other direction



Comments on Ballarete Add Comment
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By skinny legs and all
From: Elizabethtown, Pennsylvania
Jan 8, 2014
rating: V3 6A

I think the name is spelled Balarete, as in balance arete. There are three variations to the problem. The arete and it's adjacent faces are peppered with holds and no two people will do it the same. This is one of my favorite diabase aretes out of every area in Pennsylvania because of the possibilities and accessibility.

The old school way to climb the Balarete proper as I was shown by the man who knows every problem and it's history, is to climb directly on the arete without touching either the left or right face at V3/4. Essentially you are supposed to hug and outside palm pinch the arete (think pinky side of palm upwards). This is somewhat awkward at first, but graceful when mastered. It helps to suck the hips into the arete. Almost everyone who climbs it now uses their body on the left wall and might use a incut crimp on the left face, but it is very near the off route jug, which is definitely off. This old way is hard to sit start, because the left or right wall look like they must be used to start, but it can be done without using any of the holds on the left or right walls to sit start at V4/5 in my opinion. It is possible to sit start on the left wall and also on the right wall which is slightly more difficult.

Another variation is to climb the left face with the arete in your right hand at V1. Do not off route the jug slot or any of the smaller edges on the left face. Turn the jug slot into an undercling. Stand start or sit start on the left wall with almost no increase in difficulty. Top out on the left face and arete easily on jugs. This stand start left variation is a great beginner problem.

My favorite variation to the problem is to combine the arete with the Karmic Power (V5) problem. To do this, climb the right face using the gaston on the face in your right hand and then snatch the flat slot hold on the face that is used on the Karmic Power face (V5) with the right hand. This way, the arete is in your left hand. The grade is about V2/3. Either start standing, or sit start on the right face which adds a tiny bit of difficulty, perhaps V3 this way. Top out this variation on the right side of the face which is a bit higher and harder than the left top out. I almost never see anyone climbing it this way, but it is very fun.