Route Guide - iPhone / Android - Partners - Forum - Photos - Deals - What's New
Login with Facebook
 ADVANCED
The Motherlode
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
40 OZ of Justice 
8 Ball 
Ale-8-One 
Ball Scratcher 
Ben 
BOHICA 
Breathe Right 
Buff the Wood 
Burlier's Bane 
Chainsaw 
Chronic, The 
Convicted 
Crime Time 
Cutthroat 
False Positive 
Flour Power 
Flux Capacitor 
Golden Touch 
Harvest 
Heart Shape Box 
High Hard One (aka Subman), The 
Hoofmaker 
Hot For Teacher 
Injured Reserve 
Kick Me In The Jimmie 
Laura 
Leave it to Beavis 
Low Easy One, The 
Madness, The 
One-Eyed Willy Up the Back 
Pushing Up Daisies 
Reacharound, The 
Resurrection 
Rocket Dog 
Sauce, The 
Skin Boat 
SKWBA 
Snapper 
Snooker 
Stabbed in the Back 
Stain 
Stella 
Swahili Slang 
Team Wilson 
Trad Sucker 
Transworld Depravity 
Trust in Jesus 
Tuna Town 
Twisted 
Verdict, The 
White Man's Overbite 
Unsorted Routes:

Ball Scratcher 

YDS: 5.12a French: 7a+ Ewbanks: 25 UIAA: VIII+ British: E5 6a

   
Type:  Sport, 1 pitch, 50'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.11d French: 7a Ewbanks: 24 UIAA: VIII British: E5 6a [details]
FA: Jeff Moll, 1994
Page Views: 978
Submitted By: Monomaniac on Nov 11, 2009
Good Page? 0 people like this page. Your opinion:   

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (10)
Your todo list:
Your stars:
Your rating: -none- [change]
Your ticklist: [add new tick]
Arete creepiness...

Description 

Looking for something a little different? This route will test your balance & footwork more than your fitness. The technical prow requires patience and focus, not the typical bulging forearms found elsewhere along these cliffs. For this reason, this route is a poor warmup (except maybe for other weirdness like Swahili Slang) but it can offer some entertainment after The Undertow Wall has worked you over.

Begin with easy stemming up the dirty, mossy gulley. Move left onto the prow, and work between the horizontal breaks with long reaches and highsteps. Look left for the occasional sharp, incut edge. The right side of the arete will provide sloping sidepulls at a few key moments. The sustained nature of the climbing will keep you on your toes, and the stingy bolting will keep you focused.


Location 

The next route right of "Heart-Shaped Box", on the far left end of The Motherlode. The route climbs a low-angle, blunt prow at the point where the left-side approach trail first meets the cliff.


Protection 

~5 Bolts, 2BA



Comments on Ball Scratcher Add Comment
Show which comments
By shoo
From: Boston, Massachusetts
May 5, 2011

Go straight up the arete. None of this gully business.