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Buckeye Buttress
Routes Sorted
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Ball Scratcher S 
Buff the Wood S 
Chronic, The S 
Cream Machine, The S 
Golden Touch S 
Heart Shaped Box S 
Leftomaniac S 
One-Eyed Willy Up the Back S 
Reacharound, The S 
Rug Muncher S 
Stain S 
Trad Sucker S 
Twisted S 

Ball Scratcher 

YDS: 5.12a French: 7a+ Ewbanks: 25 UIAA: VIII+ ZA: 25 British: E5 6a

   
Type:  Sport, 1 pitch, 50'
Original:  YDS: 5.12a French: 7a+ Ewbanks: 25 UIAA: VIII+ ZA: 25 British: E5 6a [details]
FA: Jeff Moll, 1994
Page Views: 1,469
Submitted By: Monomaniac on Nov 11, 2009

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Arete creepiness...

Private Property MORE INFO >>>

Description 

Looking for something a little different? This route will test your balance & footwork more than your fitness. The technical prow requires patience and focus, not the typical bulging forearms found elsewhere along these cliffs. For this reason, this route is a poor warmup (except maybe for other weirdness like Swahili Slang) but it can offer some entertainment after The Undertow Wall has worked you over.

Begin with easy stemming up the dirty, mossy gulley. Move left onto the prow, and work between the horizontal breaks with long reaches and highsteps. Look left for the occasional sharp, incut edge. The right side of the arete will provide sloping sidepulls at a few key moments. The sustained nature of the climbing will keep you on your toes, and the stingy bolting will keep you focused.

Location 

The next route right of "Heart-Shaped Box", on the far left end of The Motherlode. The route climbs a low-angle, blunt prow at the point where the left-side approach trail first meets the cliff.

Protection 

~5 Bolts, 2BA


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By shoo
May 5, 2011

Go straight up the arete. None of this gully business.

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