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Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
Ball of Confusion 
Beast From The East, The 
Blocks 
Chippas Crack 
Cloak and Dagger 
Corner Crack 
Crippler 
Doug's Nose 
Doug's Roof 
Down Over 
Down Under 
Eric's Route 
Least Of The Deceased, The 
No Pro 
Premature Escalation 
Second Pitch Face 
Sleek Streek 
Splitter 
Tony the Tiger 

Ball of Confusion 

5.6

   
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Type: Trad, TR, 1 pitch, 30 feet
Consensus: 5.6 [details]
FA: Herb Stillman
Submitted By: Chris McNeil on Jan 25, 2012

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (1)
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Ball of Conusion.

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Description 

Use hand and foot jams on this nice flaring crack to the top.


Location 

This is between No Pro and Eric's Route. It's the large crack in the middle of the face.


Protection 

TR or lead with BD Camalots #0.75-#2.



Photos of Ball of Confusion Slideshow Add Photo
Corey leading "Ball of Confusion".

Corey leading "Ball of Confusion".


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By Chris McNeil
From: Essex, MA
Feb 19, 2012

This line was originally lead onsight by Herb Stillman. Only digging out the crack to place gear in and using the face for holds, he stated that it was 5.9 then. But thanks to Mr. John Chippa, this crack is cleaner than ever and a beautiful 5.6 crack line.

By JChepes
From: North Andover, MA
Jul 7, 2012

I would lean more towards Herb's grade of 5.9. Not as easy as it looks, and gear in the middle of it questionable. Ballnut, RP and 00 was what I was fiddling with. Too flaring in middle but maybe an offset?

By Eric Dearing
Jul 25, 2012

I'm just starting to explore this area, but for what it is worth, this one felt harder (to me) than Splitter or Tin Man. The jams were wet when I tried it (which I'm guessing is not uncommon, because everything else around was dry), but even if dry seems like this would make a pretty tough 5.6 compared to other similarly graded routes in the area. Solid gear though, despite being a bit flaring.

By Chris McNeil
From: Essex, MA
Sep 8, 2012

Eric. With some solid dry condition for several day this line dries out. It's a trying jam line and like everything in cape Ann properly sandbagged