Ball of Confusion 5.6
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| Type: | Trad, TR, 1 pitch, 30 feet |
| Consensus: | 5.6 [details] |
| FA: | Herb Stillman |
| Submitted By: | Chris McNeil on Jan 25, 2012 |
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Ball of Conusion.
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Description Use hand and foot jams on this nice flaring crack to the top.
Location This is between No Pro and Eric's Route. It's the large crack in the middle of the face.
Protection TR or lead with BD Camalots #0.75-#2.
Corey leading "Ball of Confusion".
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| Comments on Ball of Confusion |
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By Chris McNeil From: Essex, MA Feb 19, 2012
| This line was originally lead onsight by Herb Stillman. Only digging out the crack to place gear in and using the face for holds, he stated that it was 5.9 then. But thanks to Mr. John Chippa, this crack is cleaner than ever and a beautiful 5.6 crack line. |
By JChepes From: North Andover, MA Jul 7, 2012
| I would lean more towards Herb's grade of 5.9. Not as easy as it looks, and gear in the middle of it questionable. Ballnut, RP and 00 was what I was fiddling with. Too flaring in middle but maybe an offset? |
By Eric Dearing Jul 25, 2012
| I'm just starting to explore this area, but for what it is worth, this one felt harder (to me) than Splitter or Tin Man. The jams were wet when I tried it (which I'm guessing is not uncommon, because everything else around was dry), but even if dry seems like this would make a pretty tough 5.6 compared to other similarly graded routes in the area. Solid gear though, despite being a bit flaring. |
By Chris McNeil From: Essex, MA Sep 8, 2012
| Eric. With some solid dry condition for several day this line dries out. It's a trying jam line and like everything in cape Ann properly sandbagged |
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