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 ADVANCED
Down Under
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
Adventures with Kate & Enoch T 
Ball of Confusion T,TR 
Beast From The East, The TR 
Blocks T,TR 
Bruce 
Cape Ann Fingerbang TR 
Charging Rhino 
Chippas Crack TR 
Cloak and Dagger 
Corner Crack TR 
Crippler TR 
Doug's Nose 
Doug's Roof 
Down Over S 
Down Under S,TR 
Eric's Route T,S,TR 
Flaming Galah 
Least Of The Deceased, The TR 
Left Arete Project TR 
No Pro T,TR 
Premature Escalation 
Right Arete Project 
Second Pitch Face TR 
Sleek Streek TR 
Splitter T,TR 
Tony the Tiger T,TR 
Vegamite 
Unsorted Routes:

Ball of Confusion 

YDS: 5.6 French: 4c Ewbanks: 14 UIAA: V ZA: 12 British: S 4b

   
Type:  Trad, TR, 1 pitch, 30'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.6 French: 4c Ewbanks: 14 UIAA: V ZA: 12 British: S 4b [details]
FA: Herb Stillman
Page Views: 365
Submitted By: Chris McNeil on Jan 25, 2012

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (2)
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Ball of Conusion.

Description 

Use hand and foot jams on this nice flaring crack to the top.


Location 

This is between No Pro and Eric's Route. It's the large crack in the middle of the face.


Protection 

TR or lead with BD Camalots #0.75-#2.



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Corey leading "Ball of Confusion".
Corey leading "Ball of Confusion".
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By Chris McNeil
From: Essex, MA
Feb 19, 2012

This line was originally lead onsight by Herb Stillman. Only digging out the crack to place gear in and using the face for holds, he stated that it was 5.9 then. But thanks to Mr. John Chippa, this crack is cleaner than ever and a beautiful 5.6 crack line.

By JChepes
From: Chocorua, NH
Jul 7, 2012

I would lean more towards Herb's grade of 5.9. Not as easy as it looks, and gear in the middle of it questionable. Ballnut, RP and 00 was what I was fiddling with. Too flaring in middle but maybe an offset?

By Eric Dearing
Jul 25, 2012

I'm just starting to explore this area, but for what it is worth, this one felt harder (to me) than Splitter or Tin Man. The jams were wet when I tried it (which I'm guessing is not uncommon, because everything else around was dry), but even if dry seems like this would make a pretty tough 5.6 compared to other similarly graded routes in the area. Solid gear though, despite being a bit flaring.

By Chris McNeil
From: Essex, MA
Sep 8, 2012

Eric. With some solid dry condition for several day this line dries out. It's a trying jam line and like everything in cape Ann properly sandbagged