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Ball Nuts and Brassies (Aka Broken Ankles) 

YDS: 5.12- French: 7a+ Ewbanks: 25 UIAA: VIII+ British: E5 6a PG13

   
Type:  Trad, 70'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.12a French: 7a+ Ewbanks: 25 UIAA: VIII+ British: E5 6a [details]
FA: Dan Beck 2012
Page Views: 56
Submitted By: Blake Allen Green on Feb 6, 2014
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Description 

Begin through easy terrain up to a stance in a hueco beside the crack. Watch out for some flexing holds pulling into the hueco. Boulder out left on the crack, primarily using it as a face hold. A thank God jug appears 3/4 of the way through the crack, and from here, go straight up. The guidebook indicates going all the way to the end of the crack, then traversing right. This way seems harder, harder to protect, and more contrived. From the jug, it is possible to move straight up through face holds and enjoyable climbing. This route will be much better once all the friable holds have been kicked off, as I managed to remove several footholds both times on the route.


Location 

Right of One Side Makes You Taller and 2 routes left of Malice.


Protection 

1 set TCU/Master cams and 1 Set micro wires, maybe some medium stoppers. Bolted Anchors

Despite the name, do not let this route scare you! All of the pro is really good, the crux section being protected by a textbook 0. That being said, if any placements are skipped upon leaving the hueco, you could be moving yourself into some R rated territory. I took the whip at the crux my first time on the route and came nowhere near colliding with the "ramp" feature; the wall is sufficiently overhung and well protected as to avoid this. Small cams sufficed much better through the hard climbing than micro wires.



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