Login with Facebook
 ADVANCED
The Sentinel - East Face
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
Ball Bearing T 
Fote Hog T 
Guard Duty T 
Sentinel Beach T 
Western Saga T 

Ball Bearing 

YDS: 5.10a French: 6a Ewbanks: 18 UIAA: VI+ ZA: 18 British: E1 5a

   
Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 100'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.10a French: 6a Ewbanks: 18 UIAA: VI+ ZA: 18 British: E1 5a [details]
FA: Herb Laeger & John McGowen, November 1976
Page Views: 3,618
Submitted By: M.Morley on Sep 26, 2003

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (95)
Your todo list:
Your stars:
Your rating: -none- [change]
Your ticklist: [add new tick]
Your opinion of this PAGE:    [0 people like this page.]
Ball Bearing

Description 

Ball Bearing lies on the East Face of The Sentinel. Start left of Fote Hog (5.7) in left-trending finger crack that protects nicely with smaller size cams. Move right along horizontal crack and gain another left-trending crack. When this crack runs out just below the anchors, make a couple of spicy face moves to the 2-bolt anchor. Either rap from here (~100') as we did or continue up second pitch which apparently isn't too great. Fun climb with good gear except for last 15' to the anchors (crux). Fairly sustained.


Protection 

Nothing bigger than #2 Camalot. Double set of TCU's are helpful.



Photos of Ball Bearing Slideshow Add Photo
Al Swanson on "Ball Bearing". <br />Photo by Blitzo.
Al Swanson on "Ball Bearing".
Photo by Blitzo.
Ball Bearing, 5.10a.  Under the roof are the chains
BETA PHOTO: Ball Bearing, 5.10a. Under the roof are the chain...
Ivana at the crux.
Ivana at the crux.
beta shot
beta shot
Unknown climbers on the second pitch of Ball Bearing (5.10a).
Unknown climbers on the second pitch of Ball Beari...
Comments on Ball Bearing Add Comment
Show which comments
Comments displayed oldest to newestSkip Ahead to the Most Recent Dated Apr 7, 2014
By Murf
Oct 24, 2003

I think the 2nd pitch is pretty good. Getting through the left leaning roof/crack just out of the belay is challenging and just a bit spicy. Towards the top I have gone left both times on the route. You have to extend everything to avoid horrendous drag, and there are some interesting moves. In retrospect I wonder if the right would be a better finish, but I haven't done it.

By Art Morimitsu
From: Huntington Beach, Ca
Oct 24, 2003

I agree that the moves off the belay on the second pitch are spicy. if you come off you fall directly on top of your belayer. I finished to the left and don't remember any hard moves or the slightest bit of rope drag.

By tom donnelly
Nov 8, 2005
rating: 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a

First pitch is 5.9 3 starsSecond pitch is 10a spicy.Very shady & cold route.

By Tony B
From: Around Boulder, CO
Jan 9, 2006
rating: 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a

Great route, and one of the longest routes in the area. The first pitch is a pure joy and the second is almost as good. I thought the moves up onto the shelf were a little weird - I was prepared to really tweek in some pro above the bad nut that was obvious, but then I saw an inobvious move to get up on the ramp that was more like 5.8 than 5.10 to perform - so I didn't bother. Stop there and look around and it's no big deal. Mind your slings low on the climb and the drag up top is not too bad.

By tony grice
May 2, 2006

Awsome route!!!!!! pro was good, moves fun.A gimmie first pitch.Second p. a balancy adventure, I blind placed a .5 for the first really solid piece, you can get a small piece just off the belay

By Dr. Evil
From: Boulder, CO
May 11, 2006
rating: 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a

Beautiful climb. Both pitches are well worth doing.

By Edward Jenner
Nov 1, 2006
rating: 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c

Do both pitches, or as one pitch (double ropes helpful).

Definitely on of Josh's easy 10a's - more like 8+ by Eldo standards, but very fun.

Also starting in the left crack (as in the photo above), rather than the one marked in the guidebook seems like the nicest way to go.

By MJW
From: Boise, ID
May 4, 2008

First pitch is barely 5.9 with outstanding pro. Bring 4-5 long runners up with you. Got to go 2-3 moves above your gear to get to the belay. Second pitch is 10a...little funky and good!!

By Kyle P.
From: Lander, WY
May 4, 2008

My bro Nick A. and I intended on climbing Fote Hog which was listed in our "Trad Climbing Guide to J. Tree, 5.5 to 5.9" Fote looked run out. Maybe not, but we looked up at the kick ass crack system that turned out to be Ball Bearing. What a surprise. Butts kicked on the first cold day attempt. Success on the second. An amazing route with lots of gear ops. and clean rock. Face holds show when the cracks end. Good times.

By Pat C
From: Honolulu
May 3, 2009

This is quite an exciting warm up for a 5.10 leader. Moves are tricky, but it's more a mental 10a than a physical 10a, if ya know what i mean.

By nealg
Mar 24, 2010

Both pitches are excellent.

Make sure to have a hand-size piece for beginning of ramp / crux on P2.

Going right up hand crack after ramp on P2 minimizes rope drag and makes for a great finish up 5.7ish hand crack.

By mschlocker
From: San Diego, CA
Apr 19, 2010

On the first pitch I went straight up throught two left slanting slashes and added some diffuculty to the route. If you are looking for a 10b variation, do this. It protects with nuts and small cams.

This was linked with P2 (almost) all the way to the top. I needed more slings for the zig-sags.

By Tommy G.
From: Irvine, California
Nov 2, 2011

Doing this in one pitch (+ short finish) is the way to go.

Belay when you get to the end of the ramp before you move over the top back to the right. No rope drag to this point if you manage it well (might make it a little spicier).

Great route!

By Tradoholic
Feb 13, 2012

I really liked this one and protected the "spicy" moves of the P1 belay with a small brassie but just do the move and sink a C4 .75. The layback after was definitely interesting.

I finished left and belayed in a corner to save rope drag. I think I wish I would have gone right to do it all in two pitches instead.

By Canon
Nov 22, 2012
rating: 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a

First pitch feels harder than 5.9. Crux moves just below and right of anchor protected with blue TCU. Really, really cool route. Can get great pictures of people on Fote Hog!

By Nick Russell
Administrator
From: Bristol, UK
Nov 26, 2012

Be careful not to follow the line on the topo in the Wolverine guide too closely. It will take you directly up the first pitch rather than to the right at the horizontal (mentioned earlier as a 10b variation), and then directly through the roof at the start of pitch 2. I did this "variation" on pitch 2 and, although probably not harder than 10a (maybe 10b tops) the holds are gritty and it doesn't protect well.

By ccmski
From: Prescott, AZ
Aug 22, 2013
rating: 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a

Climbed directly up thin cracks above initial finger crack. Its all there but you've got to work a bit for good placements.

By Rob Albert
Apr 7, 2014
rating: 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a

Great climb. Definitely do the second pitch, as it is unique. DO NOT do it in one pitch from the ground - the rope drag will kill you.