Ball and Chain 

Crux is getting past the last bolt, where I stepped left (just like this) and climbed up just right of a crack, guidebook says runout but that's, only if you don't place an extended 1" or less cam at the top of the crack before committing to the flakes above.

I don't know about all the "hairy" on this one.... It's a fairly straightforward contrived squeeze job that you can make anywhere between 5.6+ and 5.10. Do the bouldery start by staying right of the first bolt, or use the 5.4 jugs 2 feet to the left to pass the opening difficulties. Up high at the top I tried to stay to the right to avoid the outright jugs of the Sphinx and ended up on the Turret. So I moved left 2ft, and did some fairly hard moves (5.10?) past the bolt, being sure not to use the huge footholds that are on the Sphinx. Fun and all, but to tick this route at the posted grade and description will take some hold eliminating discipline.

The anchors at the top of Ball and Chain looked a bit suspect. Perhaps a wrench would tighten things down.

As noted this is a 5.10a if you climb directly over the first bolt and ignore the obvious huge holds just to the left. Higher amazingly featured rock leads to another contrived crux which if climbed directly over the bolt goes at 5.9 or a little harder.

About 10' to the right is a TR variation start (5.10) which starts in a thin lieback and heads over a small roof/overlap to jugs and then joins the route at the 3rd bolt. This variation has much better movement and a fun series of moves leading into the route proper.

I agree with the previous statements: if you stick to the thinner face both at the first bolt and the last 2 bolts and avoid going left, it definitely seems 10a, but otherwise 5.9 or easier. Kind of contrived, but a decent route if you're in the area.