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The Sports Wall
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
Balkan Dirt Diving T,S 
Beginner Sports T,TR 
Changing Corners Dihedral T 
Coffin Crack T,TR 
Don't Go Chasing Waterfalls S 
Generation Gap S 
Happiness of Pursuit S 
My Generation S 
Pet Semetary T,S 
Rufus' Roof Variation T 

Balkan Dirt Diving 

YDS: 5.12a French: 7a+ Ewbanks: 25 UIAA: VIII+ ZA: 25 British: E5 6a

   
Type:  Trad, Sport, 1 pitch, 80'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.12a French: 7a+ Ewbanks: 25 UIAA: VIII+ ZA: 25 British: E5 6a [details]
FA: Ken Trout, 1992
Page Views: 3,444
Submitted By: Richard M. Wright on May 3, 2001

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (29)
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Same dude grabbing the corner....

Temporary closures near Fiscal Cliff: May-July 2014 MORE INFO >>>

Description 

Here is another excellent route by the master of excellent routes, Ken Trout. Balkan Dirt Diving begins in the middle of The Sports Wall in a smooth yellow plate bounded by a corner on the right.

Balkan Dirt Diving, like Generation Gap, delivers its crux right away. A thin seam move and a pair of clips leads quickly to a tricky traverse straight right into a shallow, left-facing corner. Hitting the corner dusts the crux at 5.12a. Chase a few bolts on excellent edges to a small roof that can be pulled on the left. Save the TCUs for the horrizontal jams above; the anchor is right above.

Three stars for the high quality stone, good climbing moves, variety, and continuity. Welcome to Clear Creek!!

Protection 

QD only. The route is 75 - 80 feet long and needs 6 - 8 draws and a pair of small TCUs or #1 Camalot for the upper section before the anchor.


Photos of Balkan Dirt Diving Slideshow Add Photo
Sizing up the rest of the route.
Sizing up the rest of the route.
Matt working up through the crux, closing 2002 out...
Matt working up through the crux, closing 2002 out...
Balkan Dirt Diving goes up the thin seam in the mi...
Balkan Dirt Diving goes up the thin seam in the mi...

Comments on Balkan Dirt Diving Add Comment
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Comments displayed oldest to newestSkip Ahead to the Most Recent Dated Oct 19, 2014
By Leo Paik
Administrator
From: Westminster, Colorado
Mar 5, 2002

Great route. Long reach at crux on thin holds. Rest of route is more moderate. Great vision.
By richard magill
Oct 2, 2002

Stellar- way better than I expected when I first looked at it.
By desbien
From: seattle,wa
Jun 4, 2007

Great route with moves not often encountered in Clear Creek. A little heady at the top if you don't protect beyond the last bolt but the upper stuff is in the .8 range. Great technical sequence on the bottom and nice pump out to pull through the roofs. Can't wait to redpoint it.
By Tzilla Rapdrilla
Jan 23, 2009

This might be a candidate for a Rawl 5-piece bolt. The nuts don't work loose on those.
By Jay Samuelson
From: Denver CO
Jan 6, 2010
rating: 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a

Fun route, sweet face climbing down low. I would recommend a 0.5, 0.75 or 1 Camalot for the top out. Although the climbing isn't as difficult, your last bolt is under the roof and you'd take a pretty big swing into the wall if you fell there.

Thanks for replacing the gear on this one, Darren, as well as all the good routes you've equipped in the canyon.
By Darren Mabe
From: Flagstaff, AZ
Jan 7, 2010

Yeah, man! My pleasure. Glad you like my routes. Stay tuned for a batch of a few more ;)
By Jay Samuelson
From: Denver CO
Jan 7, 2010
rating: 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a

Love 'em! Keep em coming! my palms are starting to sweat already....
By chipacles
Sep 1, 2010
rating: 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a

Fun route and with a tough first move! I think this move is hard for 12a, but given that it's the first move and you can do it again and again until you get it, then send the rest, it makes it 12a, as the rest of the route isn't nearly so hard (though still stout!).

I love the thin techy moves down low and the bigger, burlier moves up top. Fun stuff with a nice mix.

I put a BD #1 C3 in up top, though really, once you pull the lip, you should really fall since the stances are good and you can lean into the wall to rest....
By jarthur
From: Westminster, CO
Feb 22, 2011

There is no need for gear on this route. If you can get through the bottom, the runout 5.7 outro is easy.
By Buckc
Mar 22, 2011

Gear made this route much safer up high. It is around a 20ft run out on big leggy holds. However, you will be pumped from the climbing down below.
By Mark Wiranowski
Aug 30, 2012

Helps to have a long draw on the second to last bolt (not needed on the last bolt on the R-facing wall at the last roof). I used a #4 Metolius in the vertical slot, easily reached once established above the last roof. However, I added a #2 Metolius (had the gear with me anyway) in a horizontal as a directional, b/c the rope pulls quite a bit around the corner. Really, there's nothing hard after the roof, but the piece is comforting. P.S.: the climb is not over after the 2nd bolt.
By GabeO
From: Denver, CO
Mar 24, 2014

Really nice route. One note though: the beginning (especially getting off the ground) is very height-dependent. I'm 5'7" with a plus two ape index, and I was fine, but my wife who is two inches shorter, with a minus one, simply could not reach the left hand from the ground. The only way to have started would've been with a cheater stone, or pull 12c moves.
By drewhouser
Oct 5, 2014
rating: 5.12c/d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b X

Here we go...first negative post I've put on this site: hated that you have to put yourself at risk to get off the ground. How this gets any stars is beyond me. I've climbed most of the 12a-cs in the canyon and this is by far the worst I've been on. Don't waste your time and skip this climb...OR...am I missing something? Time is better spent at Ken T'anks, TDD, Wet Dreams, Slammer, Great Escape, or Adventure Kayak Trundle, Presto...yes please!!! Skip this garbage. Feel free to hate on this post, but to those reading...there is a reason no one climbs at the "Sports Wall." If you find yourself here and want to have some fun, go climb "Don't Go Chasing Waterfalls". It is way easier than "Balkan Dirt Diving" but rated harder???? Needless to say, I won't be back...which is a very sad thing for me to say.
By adampeters
From: Golden, Colorado
Oct 19, 2014

Sounds like someone got thumped on this route...I guess we all understand what it's like to get worked on a route we think within our ability and then hate on it. However, I don't think this route deserves a bomb, a 12c/d rating or an X. Nowhere on this route is there the potential for death or grave bodily injury. If the start is a little much for you, then stick clip the damn thing. Don't let this one dude's comment dissuade you from getting on this route, it's one of the better 12a routes in the canyon. Sorry Drewhouser, but agree to disagree.