Balkan Dirt Diving 5.12a
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Matt working up through the crux, closing 2002 out...
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Description Here is another excellent route by the master of excellent routes, Ken Trout. Balkan Dirt Diving begins in the middle of The Sports Wall in a smooth yellow plate bounded by a corner on the right.
Balkan Dirt Diving, like Generation Gap, delivers its crux right away. A thin seam move and a pair of clips leads quickly to a tricky traverse straight right into a shallow, left-facing corner. Hitting the corner dusts the crux at 5.12a. Chase a few bolts on excellent edges to a small roof that can be pulled on the left. Save the TCUs for the horrizontal jams above; the anchor is right above.
Three stars for the high quality stone, good climbing moves, variety, and continuity. Welcome to Clear Creek!!
Protection QD only. The route is 75 - 80 feet long and needs 6 - 8 draws and a pair of small TCUs or #1 Camalot for the upper section before the anchor.
Same dude grabbing the corner....
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Balkan Dirt Diving goes up the thin seam in the mi...
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Sizing up the rest of the route.
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| Comments on Balkan Dirt Diving |
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By Leo Paik
Administrator
From: Westminster, Colorado
Mar 5, 2002
| Great route. Long reach at crux on thin holds. Rest of route is more moderate. Great vision. |
By richard magill
Oct 2, 2002
| Stellar- way better than I expected when I first looked at it. |
By desbien
From: seattle,wa
Jun 4, 2007
| Great route with moves not often encountered in Clear Creek. A little heady at the top if you don't protect beyond the last bolt but the upper stuff is in the .8 range. Great technical sequence on the bottom and nice pump out to pull through the roofs. Can't wait to redpoint it. |
By Tzilla Rapdrilla
Jan 23, 2009
| This might be a candidate for a Rawl 5-piece bolt. The nuts don't work loose on those. |
By Jay Samuelson
From: Denver CO
Jan 6, 2010
rating: 5.12a
| Fun route, sweet face climbing down low. I would recommend a 0.5, 0.75 or 1 Camalot for the top out. Although the climbing isn't as difficult, your last bolt is under the roof and you'd take a pretty big swing into the wall if you fell there.
Thanks for replacing the gear on this one, Darren, as well as all the good routes you've equipped in the canyon. |
By Darren Mabe
From: Flagstaff, AZ
Jan 7, 2010
| Yeah, man! My pleasure. Glad you like my routes. Stay tuned for a batch of a few more ;) |
By Jay Samuelson
From: Denver CO
Jan 7, 2010
rating: 5.12a
| Love 'em! Keep em coming! my palms are starting to sweat already.... |
By chipacles
Sep 1, 2010
rating: 5.12a
| Fun route and with a tough first move! I think this move is hard for 12a, but given that it's the first move and you can do it again and again until you get it, then send the rest, it makes it 12a, as the rest of the route isn't nearly so hard (though still stout!).
I love the thin techy moves down low and the bigger, burlier moves up top. Fun stuff with a nice mix.
I put a BD #1 C3 in up top, though really, once you pull the lip, you should really fall since the stances are good and you can lean into the wall to rest.... |
By jarthur
From: Westminster, CO
Feb 22, 2011
rating: 5.12a
| There is no need for gear on this route. If you can get through the bottom, the runout 5.7 outro is easy. |
By Buckc
Mar 22, 2011
| Gear made this route much safer up high. It is around a 20ft run out on big leggy holds. However, you will be pumped from the climbing down below. |
By Mark Wiranowski
Aug 30, 2012
| Helps to have a long draw on the second to last bolt (not needed on the last bolt on the R-facing wall at the last roof). I used a #4 Metolius in the vertical slot, easily reached once established above the last roof. However, I added a #2 Metolius (had the gear with me anyway) in a horizontal as a directional, b/c the rope pulls quite a bit around the corner. Really, there's nothing hard after the roof, but the piece is comforting. P.S.: the climb is not over after the 2nd bolt. |
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