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A Little on the Ugly Side 
Automotive Supply House 
Baldwin's Chimney 
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Vulture Direct 
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Where the Sidewalk Ends 
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Unsorted Routes:

Baldwin's Chimney 

YDS: 5.4 French: 4a Ewbanks: 12 UIAA: IV British: VD 3c

Type:  Trad, 1 pitch
Consensus:  YDS: 5.4 French: 4a Ewbanks: 12 UIAA: IV British: VD 3c [details]
FA: ? Baldwin
Page Views: 1,950
Submitted By: Steve Levin on Aug 31, 2001
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Baldwin's Chimney was enjoyable, too bad it's not ...


Number 2 in the wide crack intro course (see Easy Jam), Baldwin's Chimney is a noticeable jump up in difficulty, primarily due to the length of the route. At the left end of the Parabolic Slab, on the NW side of the crag, find this little beauty. Use all the considerations in the Easy Jam description, and proceed with confidence. Be particularly careful here since the gear is not very good. Also, consider neoprene kneepads to lessen the pain- you can really get into a knee-foot stance so much easier if you are not wincing every time you weight your knees. Focus on securing your lower body in the crack, then pushing off your legs to advance to the next stance. The descent succumbs to moderate exploration.


Poor protection. If in doubt, try it on a toprope first.

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By Anonymous Coward
Aug 31, 2001

Re: your pro comment... Are you advocating a headpoint for this route?

Seriously, thanks for the recent burst of Vedauwoo info. I'm definitely going to take another look at the place. Any historical info is especially appreciated since the guide leaves it out.

By Steve Levin
From: Boulder, CO
Aug 31, 2001

Anonymous Coward: This, like all wide cracks, is a buttpoint.

By Theo Barker
From: Loveland, CO
Aug 5, 2002

If you follow the instructions in the book and walk (tight squeeze) all the way up under the chockstones, start climbing there. There are a number of places to place (active) pro doing it that way. It also makes the climb fairly short, but with some interesting, but positive moves to get from underneath the top chockstone to the top of it. We found that we had the best luck facing WSW as we climbed and went around the SE (left) side of the chockstone. Found the upper chockstone a good location to anchor in and belay a toprope for Mother #1. Did the airy rap off the Parabolic, Wow!

By Chad Bowman
May 19, 2005
rating: 5.2 3 8 II D 2c

I'm not a HUGE fan of the route, but it does get you up to do the rap off of the Parabolic! As for active pro, you don't need it. All I ever take up this route is a set of nuts and a couple mid range hexes. And I NEVER use all of them. Belay at the top chockstone, take the hop across to the parabolic, and take one of the coolest raps in the Voo! I'm gettin ready to take my Dad, who hasn't climbed in 30 years, up this for the rappel!This makes for an easy couple hour trip from Chy town that is more than worth it!

By taimi
From: Longmont, CO
Aug 6, 2008
rating: 5.4 4a 12 IV VD 3c

With no guidebook but memory, we looked at the climb and took lots of big stuff--Big Bro's and #5 Cams. That was a mistake. Luckily, I also took a couple of smaller cams and a rack of nuts "for the belay"--and those, I used. The first chockstone can be slung very easily, and above there are plenty of placements for nuts and smaller cams (#1 and down). Finally, on the second chockstone, I got to place the #5, mostly because I had already carried it up. It really is a delightful climb--always secure moves, gear whenever you might really want it.

By Cory
From: Boise, ID
Jul 27, 2009

I found the pro on this route to be great. A nice warmup, and a good way to get to Parabolic Slab....