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This cliff is some of the best granite in New Brunswick. The upper cliff is really solid rock with extraordinary cracks that you will wish were longer. This area is rarely visited and with time the rock rough exterior will become a little less painful, Bring Tape. The bottom cliff offers the best and highest concentrated of hard sport climbs in NB. The routes on the lower cliff are a mix between horizontals, slopers and fantastic one of a kind features that make every route a classic.
This is a new climbing area. From the Welsford Irving follow the 101 for roughly 10 KM or so. A little while after Queen's Ridge Rd turn left onto an unnamed road, usually marked with flagging tape around a pole. This road will quickly turn to dirt. Follow the road for another 5 minutes or so, passing a compost area on your right. At the end of the compost area turn right and drive past a small 'lake' , then turn left onto a bit rougher of a road. After another 5-10 min you will come to the top of a hill. The pullout and trailhead are on your right. The trail should be marked with flagging tape and also a sign. Follow this trail for an easy 10 min to the top of the cliff. It is easily possible to drive a car to the trailhead, although the road may be quite muddy after rains.
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McPeck Arete 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b North America : Canada : ... : Lowwer Tier
Locate the wide crack that separates the middle and right end of the lower tier cliff. Start up the crack but break out right about 5' up onto the face/arete, thin balancy moves will get you through the technical crux, then it a pump fest through slopers and flaring cracks to the top. ...[more] Browse More Classics in International
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