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Balcony Rock

Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
Bluto's Bluster TR 
Brutus TR 
Cliff Monster TR 
Crown Of Thorns T,TR 
Gold Medallist T,TR 
J. Wellington Wimpy TR 
Popeye's T,TR 
Popeye's Left T,TR 
Sweet Pea TR 
Thumb Press T,TR 
Thumb Press Right T,TR 
Train Song TR 

Balcony Rock Rock Climbing 


Photos:  Recent | Best | Popular
Elevation: 113'
Location: 39.3249, -77.7178 View Map  Incorrect?
Page Views: 4,223
Administrators: Frances Fierst, Kristine Hoffman (sitewide)
Submitted By: Phil Westcott on Mar 17, 2012
Forecast:
Tonight

60°
Friday

64° | 60°
Saturday

71° | 59°
Sunday

76° | 58°
Monday

74° | 57°
Tuesday

72° | 58°
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BETA PHOTO: Can anyone help with what route this is? I travers...

Description 

Just West of Sandy Hook, Maryland is Balcony Rock, one of the areas tallest routes (around 80 feet) on dense, vertical and surprisingly clean rock. This area is surrounded by boulders that seems to be frequented a bit more than the rope climbing but I can not be certain. With that said, this is a fairly local crag that will rarely see more than one climbing party in a day.

Getting There 

Balcony Rock is about 100 yards west of the School Bus turnaround down the road (West/towards Maryland Heights Proper) from town of Sandy Hook. Some say this turnaround can be used as parking on weekends, but the easiest thing to do is park down in the gravel by the Railroad lights closer to town - only a few hundred yards before the turnaround. If you do choose to park in the turnaround, don't attempt this risky move during the week and be mindful of those in town who daily use this as a turnaround.

Regardless of where you park, with the river on your left, walk until you get to two gates, follow the obvious trail with awesome stone steps to the right of these two gates. PLEASE use the stepped approach to reduce the risk of erosion, which we all know leads to access issues.

Climbing Season

For the Harper's Ferry area.

Weather station 1.0 miles from here

12 Total Climbing Routes

['4 Stars',0],['3 Stars',5],['2 Stars',6],['1 Star',1],['Bomb',0]
['<=5.6',0],['5.7',1],['5.8',3],['5.9',2],['5.10',6],['5.11',0],['5.12',0],['5.13',0],['>=5.14',0],['',0],['<=V1',0],['V2-3',0],['V4-5',0],['V6-7',0],['V8-9',0],['V10-11',0],['V12-13',0],['>=V14',0]

Classic Climbing Routes in Balcony Rock

Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes for Balcony Rock:
Crown Of Thorns   5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b     Trad, TR   
Cliff Monster   5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c X     TR, 1 pitch, 90'   
Train Song   5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a     TR, 1 pitch, 30'   
Popeye's   5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b     Trad, TR   
Gold Medallist   5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b     Trad, TR   
Browse More Rock Climbing Classics in Balcony Rock

Featured Route For Balcony Rock
Rock Climbing Photo: Start of J. Wellington Wimpy.

J. Wellington Wimpy 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b  MD : Harper's Ferry : Balcony Rock
The route starts about 20 feet right of Brutus and just left of a large stone block at the base of the cliff. Work your way up and left to the dihedral, using finger cracks and small ledges. The crux is getting above the blank face and roof to bucket holds just above. Follow the dihedral to the top, pulling through a couple small roofs along the way....[more]   Browse More Classics in MD

Photos of Balcony Rock Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: View of trail from road.
View of trail from road.
Rock Climbing Photo: Enter the trail about 20 feet before the first gat...
Enter the trail about 20 feet before the first gat...
Rock Climbing Photo: Rock steps. Whoever built these did a great job.
Rock steps. Whoever built these did a great job.
Rock Climbing Photo: View of trail from road.
View of trail from road.
Rock Climbing Photo: Another view from down-trail.
Another view from down-trail.
Rock Climbing Photo: Approach trail from above.
Approach trail from above.
Rock Climbing Photo: This One inch crack helps with TR anchor.
This One inch crack helps with TR anchor.
Rock Climbing Photo: View of the crag from down-trail.
View of the crag from down-trail.
Rock Climbing Photo: Bolt on top of main wall.
Bolt on top of main wall.
Rock Climbing Photo: Close up of bolt. Fixie hardware. Rust on beaner o...
Close up of bolt. Fixie hardware. Rust on beaner o...
Rock Climbing Photo: View of anchor as you approach.
View of anchor as you approach.
Rock Climbing Photo: View of top from the trail. Down and to the right ...
View of top from the trail. Down and to the right ...
Rock Climbing Photo: About the center of the main wall looking left (we...
About the center of the main wall looking left (we...
Rock Climbing Photo: Bottom half of previous image. Balcony Rock with r...
Bottom half of previous image. Balcony Rock with r...
Rock Climbing Photo: Balcony Rock with the rope hanging on the bolt/gea...
Balcony Rock with the rope hanging on the bolt/gea...

Comments on Balcony Rock Add Comment
Show which comments
By doc
Jan 13, 2015
Route pictured I named CamelFlake. Looks like left variation from pic. This place was my second home and sure alot were 1st accents. The rt straight over top of flake is doable use kneebar and pray for long arms! Popeyes revenge is the best power route.if any way I can help anyone else out id be more than happy to. You can catch me at Walter Holliday@ yahoo.com. by the way...need a partner.get tired of bouldering. Hit me up.we'll have a blast. Peace n climb on!!! DOC
By doc
Jan 13, 2015
Oops...sorry.never named that. Have free soloed so in the lower range. The Fairway is on the left.sorry bout dat. DOC
By brian007m
May 3, 2016
Do not park in turnaround even on weekend! I had just parked there on a Sunday and had to move my car so a community bus could turn around.

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