Balcony Rock Rock Climbing
BETA PHOTO: Can anyone help with what route this is? I travers...
Just West of Sandy Hook, Maryland is Balcony Rock, one of the areas tallest routes (around 80 feet) on dense, vertical and surprisingly clean rock. This area is surrounded by boulders that seems to be frequented a bit more than the rope climbing but I can not be certain. With that said, this is a fairly local crag that will rarely see more than one climbing party in a day.
Balcony Rock is about 100 yards west of the School Bus turnaround down the road (West/towards Maryland Heights Proper) from town of Sandy Hook. Some say this turnaround can be used as parking on weekends, but the easiest thing to do is park down in the gravel by the Railroad lights closer to town - only a few hundred yards before the turnaround. If you do choose to park in the turnaround, don't attempt this risky move during the week and be mindful of those in town who daily use this as a turnaround.
Regardless of where you park, with the river on your left, walk until you get to two gates, follow the obvious trail with awesome stone steps to the right of these two gates. PLEASE use the stepped approach to reduce the risk of erosion, which we all know leads to access issues.
Weather station 1.0 miles from here
12 Total Climbing Routes
['4 Stars',0],['3 Stars',5],['2 Stars',6],['1 Star',1],['Bomb',0]
Classic Climbing Routes in Balcony Rock
Browse More Rock Climbing Classics in Balcony Rock
Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes for Balcony Rock:
Train Song 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a TR, 1 pitch, 30'
Popeye's 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b Trad, TR
Featured Route For Balcony Rock
J. Wellington Wimpy 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b MD
: Harper's Ferry
: Balcony Rock
The route starts about 20 feet right of Brutus and just left of a large stone block at the base of the cliff. Work your way up and left to the dihedral, using finger cracks and small ledges. The crux is getting above the blank face and roof to bucket holds just above. Follow the dihedral to the top, pulling through a couple small roofs along the way....[more] Browse More Classics in MD
Bottom half of previous image. Balcony Rock with r...
Rock steps. Whoever built these did a great job.
About the center of the main wall looking left (we...
Another view from down-trail.
View of top from the trail. Down and to the right ...
View of anchor as you approach.
View of the crag from down-trail.
Bolt on top of main wall.
Approach trail from above.
Close up of bolt. Fixie hardware. Rust on beaner o...
Balcony Rock with the rope hanging on the bolt/gea...
Enter the trail about 20 feet before the first gat...
This One inch crack helps with TR anchor.
Jan 13, 2015
Route pictured I named CamelFlake. Looks like left variation from pic. This place was my second home and sure alot were 1st accents. The rt straight over top of flake is doable use kneebar and pray for long arms! Popeyes revenge is the best power route.if any way I can help anyone else out id be more than happy to. You can catch me at Walter Holliday@ yahoo.com. by the way...need a partner.get tired of bouldering. Hit me up.we'll have a blast. Peace n climb on!!! DOC
Jan 13, 2015
Oops...sorry.never named that. Have free soloed so in the lower range. The Fairway is on the left.sorry bout dat. DOC