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Balcony Jr.

Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
4P Super Pump TR 
7 Second Peel 
Abolitionists Fury T 
B & O Burn S 
Bat Crack 
Bat Crack low 
Bright Lights 
Cold Steel Corner T,TR 
Damn Leaves 
Forearm Furnace TR 
Founder's Forge, The T,TR 
Gravitas Free Zone TR 
Grooving Up Slowly T,TR 
HorrorZontals T,TR 
Mojo Filter T,TR 
Mojo Filter (right) T,TR 
Paymaster, The S 
Potomac Power Plant Pump S 
Punk Dunkin' 
Salty Dog Saloon T 
Serious Callers Only T,TR 
Third Degree Burn 
Tried for Treason T,TR 
Valley of Fear 

Balcony Jr. Rock Climbing 

Photos:  Recent | Best | Popular
Location: 39.3252, -77.7195 View Map  Incorrect?
Page Views: 3,802
Administrators: Frances Fierst, Kristine Hoffman (sitewide)
Submitted By: Conrad S. on Nov 21, 2012


58° | 49°

60° | 48°

69° | 53°

70° | 48°

72° | 53°
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Balcony Jr. is a south facing wall along a power line clearing on Elk Ridge, MD, within the National Park Service property for Harpers Ferry National Historic Park. The wall is 30 to 65 feet tall and nearly every portion of the wall overhangs to some degree. The holds tend to be large but open handed and somewhat slopey. For these reasons the rock can be difficult to read as what looks like a hold may be too slopey to grab. The rock is very hard.

It’s just a short uphill hike from Balcony Rock where most people have climbed in the past. Due to the lack of trees in the powerline clearing and the position of the cliff up the mountain side there is an exposed feeling while climbing on this cliff.

This cliff is a great winter climbing area. It faces due south and gets bombarded by the sun all day long. It is climbable through most winters if the wind is not too strong.

The bottom left corner of this cliff is known as The Sunshine Wall for its good sunny winter bouldering. The landing zone is flat and the variations are fun.

The center area of the cliff sees some seepage during wet conditions and during the winter. A small bit of ice can form on the bottom half but it isn’t climbable. Multiple types of snakes have been sited below this cliff though not on a consistent or frequent basis. One of these types was poisonous.

Getting There 

Parking is the main issue for this cliff and for most of Harpers Ferry. The parking situation changes with the seasons, the quantities of tourists at the park, and people recreating in the water gap. It is best to reach out to local climbers on facebook or in local clubs or outdoor shops to get the current parking beta.
The approach is uphill about 10-20 minutes depending on your leg strength.

Climbing Season

For the Harper's Ferry area.

Weather station 0.9 miles from here

25 Total Climbing Routes

['4 Stars',1],['3 Stars',7],['2 Stars',15],['1 Star',2],['Bomb',0]

Classic Climbing Routes in Balcony Jr.

Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes for Balcony Jr.:
Grooving Up Slowly   5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b     Trad, TR, 1 pitch, 30'   
Cold Steel Corner   5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a     Trad, TR, 1 pitch, 65'   
B & O Burn   5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b     Sport, 1 pitch, 50'   
Salty Dog Saloon   5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b     Trad, 1 pitch, 65'   
Potomac Power Plant Pump   5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b     Sport, 1 pitch, 50'   
The Paymaster   5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c     Sport, 1 pitch, 50'   
Browse More Rock Climbing Classics in Balcony Jr.

Featured Route For Balcony Jr.
Rock Climbing Photo: View of the upper dihedral on Salty Dog Saloon fro...

Salty Dog Saloon 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b  MD : Harper's Ferry : Balcony Jr.
Excellent route. Begin 20-25' left of Forearm Furnace, next to the black 3' tall step. Climb up to and around the inverted ramp roof to the left (alternatively, pull the roof directly) (a piece of fixed gear exists on the lip of the overhang at the crux). Climb up and then right to gain the left-facing corner then run to the top where you will find anchors. (Indy)...[more]   Browse More Classics in MD

Photos of Balcony Jr. Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: Looking east from the top, left of Cold Steel Corn...
Looking east from the top, left of Cold Steel Corn...
Rock Climbing Photo: A tiny tiny ice flow forms some times on cold wint...
BETA PHOTO: A tiny tiny ice flow forms some times on cold wint...
Rock Climbing Photo: Climber leading "Cold Steel Corner".
Climber leading "Cold Steel Corner".
Rock Climbing Photo: Balcony Jr. one fine winter day
Balcony Jr. one fine winter day
Rock Climbing Photo: Balcony Jr in soft winter light
BETA PHOTO: Balcony Jr in soft winter light
Rock Climbing Photo: Balcony Jr
BETA PHOTO: Balcony Jr
Rock Climbing Photo: A tiny tiny ice flow forms some times on cold wint...
BETA PHOTO: A tiny tiny ice flow forms some times on cold wint...
Rock Climbing Photo: Chowing on a sandwich on a midwinter day at the ba...
BETA PHOTO: Chowing on a sandwich on a midwinter day at the ba...

Comments on Balcony Jr. Add Comment
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By cmj
Jun 23, 2015
HEADS UP: This area is not included in the area closures at HF this summer, but I noticed a falcon nest there that looks active (not that I know jack about birds). NPS has been made aware.

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