L to R R to L Alpha
Balcony Jr. is a south facing wall along a power line clearing on Elk Ridge, MD, within the National Park Service property for Harpers Ferry National Historic Park. The wall is 30 to 65 feet tall and nearly every portion of the wall overhangs to some degree. The holds tend to be large but open handed and somewhat slopey. For these reasons the rock can be difficult to read as what looks like a hold may be too slopey to grab. The rock is very hard.
Parking is the main issue for this cliff and for most of Harpers Ferry. The parking situation changes with the seasons, the quantities of tourists at the park, and people recreating in the water gap. It is best to reach out to local climbers on facebook or in local clubs or outdoor shops to get the current parking beta.
15 Total Routes
Browse More Classics in Balcony Jr.
Mountain Project's determination of some of the classic, most popular, highest rated routes for Balcony Jr.:
Gravitas Free Zone 5.6 4c 14 V S 4b TR, 1 pitch, 47'
Grooving Up Slowly 5.6 4c 14 V S 4b Trad, TR, 1 pitch, 30'
Mojo Filter 5.7 5a 15 V+ MVS 4b Trad, TR, 1 pitch, 44'
Mojo Filter (right) 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ MVS 4b Trad, TR, 1 pitch, 30'
Cold Steel Corner 5.9 5c 17 VI HVS 5a Trad, TR, 1 pitch, 65'
The Founder's Forge 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ E1 5a Trad, TR, 1 pitch, 44'
Serious Callers Only 5.10 6b 20 VII- E2 5b Trad, TR, 1 pitch, 67'
B & O Burn 5.10 6b 20 VII- E2 5b Sport, 1 pitch, 50'
Abolitionists Fury 5.10 6b 20 VII- E2 5b Trad, 1 pitch, 60'
Salty Dog Saloon 5.10c 6b 20 VII E2 5b Trad, 1 pitch, 65'
Potomac Power Plant Pump 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ E3 5b Sport, 1 pitch, 50'
4P Super Pump 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ E3 5b TR, 1 pitch, 50'
Tried for Treason 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ E3 5c Trad, TR, 1 pitch, 67'
The Paymaster 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- E4 5c Sport, 1 pitch, 50'
Forearm Furnace 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII E4 6a TR, 1 pitch, 50'
Featured Route For Balcony Jr.
Salty Dog Saloon 5.10c 6b 20 VII E2 5b MD : Harper's Ferry : Balcony Jr.
Excellent route. Begin 20-25' left of Forearm Furnace, next to the black 3' tall step. Climb up to and around the inverted ramp roof to the left (alternatively, pull the roof directly) (a piece of fixed gear exists on the lip of the overhang at the crux). Climb up and then right to gain the left-facing corner then run to the top where you will find anchors. (Indy)...[more] Browse More Classics in MD