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Balcony Jr.

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Balcony Jr. 


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Lat, Long: 39.3252, -77.7195 Map Incorrect?
Page Views: 1,711
Administrators: Frances Fierst, Kristine Hoffman
Submitted By: Conrad S. on Nov 21, 2012
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Wed Thu Fri Sat Sun
Clear
47° | 29°
Clear
55° | 32°
Partly Cloudy
56° | 38°
Clear
64° | 35°
Clear
64° | 40°
Balcony Jr. one fine winter day

Description 

Balcony Jr. is a south facing wall along a power line clearing on Elk Ridge, MD, within the National Park Service property for Harpers Ferry National Historic Park. The wall is 30 to 65 feet tall and nearly every portion of the wall overhangs to some degree. The holds tend to be large but open handed and somewhat slopey. For these reasons the rock can be difficult to read as what looks like a hold may be too slopey to grab. The rock is very hard.

Itís just a short uphill hike from Balcony Rock where most people have climbed in the past. Due to the lack of trees in the powerline clearing and the position of the cliff up the mountain side there is an exposed feeling while climbing on this cliff.

This cliff is a great winter climbing area. It faces due south and gets bombarded by the sun all day long. It is climbable through most winters if the wind is not too strong.

The bottom left corner of this cliff is known as The Sunshine Wall for its good sunny winter bouldering. The landing zone is flat and the variations are fun.

The center area of the cliff sees some seepage during wet conditions and during the winter. A small bit of ice can form on the bottom half but it isnít climbable. Multiple types of snakes have been sited below this cliff though not on a consistent or frequent basis. One of these types was poisonous.


Getting There 

Parking is the main issue for this cliff and for most of Harpers Ferry. The parking situation changes with the seasons, the quantities of tourists at the park, and people recreating in the water gap. It is best to reach out to local climbers on facebook or in local clubs or outdoor shops to get the current parking beta.
The approach is uphill about 10-20 minutes depending on your leg strength.


15 Total Routes


['4 Stars',1],['3 Stars',6],['2 Stars',8],['1 Star',0],['Bomb',0]
['<=5.6',2],['5.7',2],['5.8',0],['5.9',1],['5.10',7],['5.11',3],['5.12',0],['5.13',0],['>=5.14',0],['',0],['<=V1',0],['V2-3',0],['V4-5',0],['V6-7',0],['V8-9',0],['V10-11',0],['V12-13',0],['>=V14',0]


Featured Route For Balcony Jr.
Climber on the bottom half of Cold Steel Corner (C.O.)

Cold Steel Corner 5.9 5c 17 VI HVS 5a  MD : Harper's Ferry : Balcony Jr.
Another of the classics at this cliff. The holds are good but open handed, except for a distinct crux section above the large ledge in the middle of the route. You will likely be pumped regardless of your ability. For leaders, one piece of fixed gear protects the crux where gear is minimal and a fall onto a large ledge is possible. A RURP use to exist in the crux but due to age (rusty) the wire was snipped and the gear was replaced with a fixed anchor. ...[more]   Browse More Classics in MD

Photos of Balcony Jr. Slideshow Add Photo
Looking east from the top, left of Cold Steel Corner (dihedral visible in photo) (Carl O.)
Looking east from the top, left of Cold Steel Corn...
Climber leading "Cold Steel Corner".
Climber leading "Cold Steel Corner".
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