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Mudterm Area
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Balancing Act 
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Mudterm 

Balancing Act 

YDS: 5.9 French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI British: HVS 5a

   
Type:  Trad, 5 pitches, 500', Grade II
Consensus:  YDS: 5.9 French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI British: HVS 5a [details]
FA: Josh Thompson, Larry DeAngelo
New Route: Yes
Page Views: 252
Submitted By: Larry DeAngelo on Jan 1, 2005
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Gaining the clean jam crack on pitch 3 of Balancin...

Description 

About 200 yards to the west of Mudterm, across a small drainage, is a complex buttress. On its right-hand side there is a clean prominent facet split by an attractive jam crack. This is the route.

Pitch 1: Start below and right of the upper facet in a dihedral with a delicately balanced pillar (5.7).

Pitch 2: Class 3 and 4 climbing leads past a few bushes to a belay spot beneath the obvious roof.

Pitch 3: Climb past the overhang to easier rock in the jam crack above. (5.9)

Pitch 4: Continue up the crack and through a steep but easy v-slot splitting the top of the pillar.

Pitch 5: Move slightly left and follow the crest of the buttress as it levels off.

Descent: Downlead a short pitch to the right (western side of buttress). Then scramble down the brushy gully all the way to the base. There are a few moments of interesting class 3 along the way. The easiest line appears to trend toward the left (western) side of the gully.


Protection 

Standard rack, small wires.



Photos of Balancing Act Slideshow Add Photo
Mudterm Area.  A=Mudterm,  B=Balancing Act,  C=Kick in the Balls
BETA PHOTO: Mudterm Area. A=Mudterm, B=Balancing Act, C=Kic...
The dihedral on pitch 1 of Balancing Act contains a delicately balanced sandstone column that is resting on a pedestal only a few inches across.
The dihedral on pitch 1 of Balancing Act contains ...
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By J. Thompson
From: denver, co
Jun 5, 2005
rating: 5.9 5c 17 VI HVS 5a

A fun route!! Thanks for letting me in on this gem larry!!