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 ADVANCED
Balanced Rock Wall

Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
12 5.9 dihedral T,TR 
13 5.4 Corner T 
22 5.8 face climb T,TR 
6.63 Smoots T,TR 
AAHRG T,TR 
Basswood Chimney T,TR 
Beer and Booty T,TR 
Bifurcation T,TR 
Der Glotz TR 
False Dilemma T 
Fear and Trembling TR 
Grandma's Staircase TR 
Invitation T,TR 
Invitation Direct T,TR 
Moondust  T 
Morning After T 
Mr. Neutron TR 
New Box T,TR 
Night Before TR 
R.S.V.P. T,TR 
Red Pulpit T,TR 
Spring Fever TR 
Sunken Pillar T,TR 
Switch Cover Crack T 
Watermarks T,TR 
Watermarks Direct T,TR 
Watermarks Left Side TR 

Balanced Rock Wall 


Photos: Recent | Best | Popular
Location: 43.4143, -89.7252 View Map  Incorrect?
Page Views: 14,912
Administrators: Burt Lindquist, Doug Hemken, Chris treggE, Kristine Hoffman
Submitted By: Tom Anderson-Brown on Feb 24, 2002
Forecast:
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Partly Cloudy
77° | 57°
Clear
82° | 70°
Chance of a Thunderstorm
89° | 64°
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Clear
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You & This Area
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Balanced Rock at sunset, April 09.

Description 

The Balanced Rock Wall is one of the most popular climbing spots at Devil's Lake, and it's also a good place to go to impress day hikers since the Balanced Rock Trail passes along the base of the wall. The Balanced Rock Wall is a 40 foot wall containing the classic climb Watermarks (5.8), along with a handful of other moderate and enjoyable climbs. Access is fairly easy and straight forward, and the quality of the climbs is high. The only downside to the formation is the likelihood that you'll encounter a lot of people throughout the day. If you're looking to show off, this is the place for you. If you're looking for solitude, steer clear.


Getting There 

To gain access to the Balanced Rock Wall hike up the Balanced Rock trail about halfway up the bluff. Twenty minutes of rock steps (10 if you're fast) and you will come upon this fine piece of rock. You really will have a hard time getting lost when looking for the Balanced Rock Wall.


Climbing Season


27 Total Routes


['4 Stars',0],['3 Stars',12],['2 Stars',9],['1 Star',4],['Bomb',0]
['<=5.6',11],['5.7',0],['5.8',6],['5.9',4],['5.10',5],['5.11',1],['5.12',0],['5.13',0],['>=5.14',0],['',0],['<=V1',0],['V2-3',0],['V4-5',0],['V6-7',0],['V8-9',0],['V10-11',0],['V12-13',0],['>=V14',0]

The Classics

Mountain Project's determination of some of the classic, most popular, highest rated routes for Balanced Rock Wall:
New Box   5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c     Trad, TR   
Sunken Pillar   5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a     Trad, TR   
Red Pulpit   5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b     Trad, TR   
Watermarks   5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c     Trad, TR   
Der Glotz   5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a     TR   
Fear and Trembling   5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a     TR   
Watermarks Direct   5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a     Trad, TR   
AAHRG   5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a     Trad, TR, 1 pitch, 50'   
Moondust    5.10c/d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b     Trad, 1 pitch, 45'   
Morning After   5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b PG13     Trad   
Browse More Classics in Balanced Rock Wall

Featured Route For Balanced Rock Wall
Closer look at Der Glotz.

Der Glotz 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a  WI : Devil's Lake : ... : Balanced Rock Wall
Der Glotz is a great route situated between Watermarks and Sunken Pillar. It follows a right-trending diagonal ledge up to some tough moves up along the left side of the zig-zag overhangs of Watermarks Left Side. To climb get up onto the diagonal ledge (ledge is about 2" wide) and use careful hands to work right until ledge runs out. At the top of the ledge reach up to a rectangular pocket. Pull up on this pocket and move your feet up so you can get your feet up into this pocket. From here ...[more]   Browse More Classics in WI

Photos of Balanced Rock Wall Slideshow Add Photo
The solitude and serenity of Watermarks Wall on a summer Thursday.
The solitude and serenity of Watermarks Wall on a ...
Bob Horan on FA of Moondust 5.10d, circa 1976
Bob Horan on FA of Moondust 5.10d, circa 1976
What climbs are these next to "Red Pulpit?"
What climbs are these next to "Red Pulpit?"
BH bouldering on the Lou Reed Boulder, Balanced Rock Area.
BH bouldering on the Lou Reed Boulder, Balanced Ro...
Gokul and Angie, cleaning up graffiti
Gokul and Angie, cleaning up graffiti
Comments on Balanced Rock Wall Add Comment
Show which comments
By rocktiger
Sep 25, 2003

Where is this Rock Wall located? Ced

By Tradoholic
Aug 11, 2011

This area can be a total mess with hikers, tourists, scouts, and climbers mixed up in a blender. Get their really early to avoid the sun and then split for elsewhere. The climbs are getting pretty beat too with many layers of rubber and chalk.

Sunken Pillar, Watermarks, Morning After and New Box are the climbs to do.

By Tom Mulholland
From: #1 Cheese Producing State!
Aug 17, 2011

Do Moondust too! A steeper, shorter version of Sometime Direct. One of the better protected 5.11s in the park.