Balance 5.8
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| Type: | Sport, 1 pitch, 50 feet |
| Consensus: | 5.8+ [details] |
| FA: | Bob & Carrie Robertson |
| Submitted By: | Julian Smith on Aug 13, 2002 |
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Description Balance is located at the highest point of the trail that goes along the base of the Pinnacle. There are also some nice rocks to sit on just out from the base of the cliff. Locate an upside-down crescent that has 3 bolts rising above it to the anchors. Just to the left is a crack with a piton. To the right is a very steep, but short 3 bolt route that has two orange anchors on the slab next to the second bolt on Balance. Balance is primarily a lower angled slab.
With a reach, grab good incuts on the crescent and pull up onto it. Clip the first bolt and head right to get up on the slab. Follow the next two bolts to the anchors.
Eds. the FAs felt this route was 5.9 if you follow the bolts.
Protection Maybe you will need 12 quickdraws, and a 60m rope for sure.
By Dan Russell
Oct 27, 2003
| Balance is definitely a fun one. The routes Julian describes to either side: I know the crescent crack is an old Harvey Carter route, and the short overhang to the right is The Shiiter, a 3 bolt .12a, also fun. |
By Larry Shaw
Jun 13, 2004
rating: 5.7
| Fun route with good holds...felt much easier than war time. |
By jmeizis
From: Colorado Springs, CO
Aug 27, 2009
rating: 5.8+ PG13
| This route has been extended. From the piton it now goes straight up the headwall on the climbers left. The difficulty is similar. You need a 60m to make it to the ground. |
By Julian Smith
From: Colorado Springs, CO
Sep 14, 2009
| This route has certainly changed a bit. The original set of anchors has been chopped; not sure why they weren't just left in place. You will need many more quick-draws now. Definitely take a 60m rope, too. There might be a couple of feet left over when you get lowered to the ground. Remember to tie a knot in the end of the rope! |
By England
From: ?
Aug 29, 2010
rating: 5.8+
| Definitely will stretch your 60 meter to the limit. As Julian stated above, it's best to tie a knot in the end on the rope when lowering. I thought this was a pretty stiff 5.8. |
By Jon Grams
From: Colorado Springs, CO
Jan 23, 2011
rating: 5.9
| Bob and Carrie Robertson bolted the extension to this route. The crux on the new section goes at 5.9+ according to Bob, and that seems about right. The length was measured out specifically to get the max out of a 60m rope. Fun! |
By Chris Dickson
From: Colorado Springs, CO
May 11, 2011
rating: 5.8+
| New top section of this route is fun! Sustained 5.8 for 100+ ft. Now shares anchors with Tiger Snap. |
By Tim Burke
From: Colorado Springs, CO
Apr 14, 2012
| Julian, will you add the details of the extended route into the description? How many bolts now? How far above the Tiger Snap anchors are the new balence anchors? 60m still works? |
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