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 ADVANCED
The Pinnacle
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
Army Route, The T 
Balance S 
Cheyenne S 
Chivalry S 
Corrugation Corner S 
Dragnet S 
Full Monty S 
Kendlee S 
Men Arete, The S 
Right-Facing Corner T 
Shitter, The S 
Tiger Snap? S 
Unsorted Routes:

Balance 

YDS: 5.8 French: 5b Ewbanks: 16 UIAA: VI- ZA: 15 British: HVS 4c

   
Type:  Sport, 1 pitch, 50'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.8+ French: 5b Ewbanks: 16 UIAA: VI- ZA: 15 British: HVS 4c [details]
FA: Bob & Carrie Robertson
Page Views: 2,322
Submitted By: Julian Smith on Aug 13, 2002

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (25)
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Description 

Balance is located at the highest point of the trail that goes along the base of the Pinnacle. There are also some nice rocks to sit on just out from the base of the cliff. Locate an upside-down crescent that has 3 bolts rising above it to the anchors. Just to the left is a crack with a piton. To the right is a very steep, but short 3 bolt route that has two orange anchors on the slab next to the second bolt on Balance. Balance is primarily a lower angled slab.

With a reach, grab good incuts on the crescent and pull up onto it. Clip the first bolt and head right to get up on the slab. Follow the next two bolts to the anchors.

Eds. the FAs felt this route was 5.9 if you follow the bolts.

Protection 

Maybe you will need 12 quickdraws, and a 60m rope for sure.


Comments on Balance Add Comment
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By Dan Russell
Oct 27, 2003

Balance is definitely a fun one. The routes Julian describes to either side: I know the crescent crack is an old Harvey Carter route, and the short overhang to the right is The Shiiter, a 3 bolt .12a, also fun.
By Larry Shaw
Jun 13, 2004
rating: 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b

Fun route with good holds...felt much easier than war time.
By jmeizis
From: Colorado Springs, CO
Aug 27, 2009
rating: 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c PG13

This route has been extended. From the piton it now goes straight up the headwall on the climbers left. The difficulty is similar. You need a 60m to make it to the ground.
By Julian Smith
From: Colorado Springs, CO
Sep 14, 2009

This route has certainly changed a bit. The original set of anchors has been chopped; not sure why they weren't just left in place. You will need many more quick-draws now. Definitely take a 60m rope, too. There might be a couple of feet left over when you get lowered to the ground. Remember to tie a knot in the end of the rope!
By England
From: ?
Aug 29, 2010
rating: 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c

Definitely will stretch your 60 meter to the limit. As Julian stated above, it's best to tie a knot in the end on the rope when lowering. I thought this was a pretty stiff 5.8.
By Chris Dickson
From: Colorado Springs, CO
May 11, 2011
rating: 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c

New top section of this route is fun! Sustained 5.8 for 100+ ft. Now shares anchors with Tiger Snap.
By Tim Burke
From: Colorado Springs, CO
Apr 14, 2012

Julian, will you add the details of the extended route into the description? How many bolts now? How far above the Tiger Snap anchors are the new balence anchors? 60m still works?
By Jordan Hirro
From: Colorado Springs/Glenwood Spri
Nov 13, 2013

Did this back in June. The extension out left is super fun! I think it's about 5(ish) more bolts to the 2 cold shut anchor atop. Just bring 12 and you'll be fine. As mentioned, a 60 just makes it...definitely tie knots in it. I'd say it goes at .8 or maybe even .9 due to its length. Super fun!
By Rich F.
From: Colorado Springs, CO
Aug 3, 2014
rating: 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c

Fun climb -- enjoyed the long extension of the original route. Definitely thought it was harder than 5.8, but for me the crux was still the balancey technical move past the 1st bolt (which felt more like 5.9 given my relative lack of balance and flexibility).

The 1st bolt is pretty high. There are big holds to reach the clip, but you probably want a spot, because a fall before clipping that bolt would do some serious damage to your ankles.

Definitely need at least a 60m rope to reach the ground from the anchors.