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Balance of Power S 
Bush League T 
Horse Schist T 

Balance of Power 

YDS: 5.10b French: 6a+ Ewbanks: 19 UIAA: VII- ZA: 19 British: E2 5b

   
Type:  Sport, 1 pitch, 130'
Original:  YDS: 5.10b French: 6a+ Ewbanks: 19 UIAA: VII- ZA: 19 British: E2 5b [details]
FA: Trevor Bowman, Bryan Schmitz, Pete Thompson
Page Views: 590
Submitted By: Ty Morrison-Heath on Feb 1, 2012

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BETA PHOTO: Topo for Balance of Power

Description 

A great route that requires three mini roof pulls. One of the longer single pitch climbs in the area. Bring slings and think about your clips to avoid rope drag. A 70 meter rope will leave you about 3 feet above the ground on the rappel. If you have a shorter rope there is an intermediate anchor about 5/8's of the way down. Pro-Tip: If you rap with a 70 you can use the intermediate anchor to allow you to rap all the way down to the scree field, thus avoiding the chossy downclimb of the chute.

Location 

In the middle of the wall this is the bolt line that heads left and through a series of roofs.

Protection 

17 Draws. Bring slings to make the rope drag less intense. 2 chain anchor at the top with another 2 chain anchor half way down the wall to assist those with shorter ropes.


Photos of Balance of Power Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: Clark stepping off the vein. about 1/4 the way up.
Clark stepping off the vein. about 1/4 the way up.

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