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Balance in Nature 

Hueco: V5 Font: 6C

   
Type:  Boulder
Consensus:  Hueco: V5-6 Font: 6C+ [details]
FA: unknown
Page Views: 4,647
Submitted By: Peter Franzen on Sep 25, 2001

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (28)
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The start

Climbing areas reopened after flood MORE INFO >>>

Description 

This problem is located on the North side of the BBC boulder in the main Satelite area. The north side of the boulder is just ever-so-slightly overhanging, and has many small crimpy problems. 'Balance in Nature' starts on the very chalked undercling in the small left-facing dihedral towards the left end of the wall. Bump up to some shallow crimps, then make a couple of longer moves to better crimps, and go for the top.

This one is definitely easier for taller folk, but has enough intermediate holds to make it fun for everyone.

Protection 

A pad and a spotter.


Photos of Balance in Nature Slideshow Add Photo
Misha on Balance in Nature.
Misha on Balance in Nature.
BETA PHOTO
Jim giving the problem the ol' evil eye...
Jim giving the problem the ol' evil eye...
Low.
Low.
My crux.
My crux.
Luke Childers on his 2nd lap of "Balance In N...
Luke Childers on his 2nd lap of "Balance In N...
Balance in Nature.
Balance in Nature.

Comments on Balance in Nature Add Comment
Show which comments
By Chip Phillips
From: Broomfield, CO
Jun 28, 2002
rating: V6 7A

More like V6, but a very good problem.
By Anonymous Coward
Jun 28, 2002

V5 seems right to me. I can't climb any harder than V5 and I can do it fairly consistently therefore, due to my ineptitude, it must be V5.
By Chip Phillips
From: Broomfield, CO
Jul 4, 2002
rating: V6 7A

I knew if I through down the "sandbagged" card, I'd get a response. No offense intended, I just think its harder than V5.
By Adam Hicks`
Jul 22, 2003

Hell, I even thought it felt hard for V6, but I'll give it V6 in my book. I can usually send a V6 if the moves are right for me, and I haven't sent this piece of work yet. I've sent, as has Chip, V7's harder FOR ME.
By Travis Poor
May 3, 2006

I did this problem the other day, and being kind of tall (6'1) I was able to reach the top left crimp without having to move my feet up. Without having to move your feet up it is at most v5, but I can see how it would be much harder if you had to move your feet off of the small left hand crimp. That is probably the source of the discrepancy.
By Aeon Aki
Administrator
Jun 13, 2007
rating: V6 7A

The shorter your reach, the harder it gets....
By Luke Childers
Apr 26, 2009
rating: V6 7A

1st things 1st - it's a cool line. How hard the problem does seem height dependent, however I still the line is around V6 and I am almost six feet tall. The best qualifier for the difficulty rating on this one, tall or short, is foot work. I find it truly is "Balance in Nature." That being said... give it a visit for sure.
By Osiris Graves
From: Denver,co
Oct 20, 2009

Hello climbers, I'm glad we have all made it to the Satellites and tried this little piece of work. It was a fun climb! I'm only 5'7" and felt this problem was considerable harder than Re-Entry Burn which I hear is a V5-V6. For me, the business starts as soon as you try and move off the left hand crimp and the right hand pinch to the right hand gaston in the upper dihedral, but I found with some fancy foot work it was not all that bad. I would have to agree with Luke on this one it's all about the foot work assuming you can pull yourself up the small and sharp crimps.