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Bail off the naked edge?
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Nov 5, 2009
Crux Move
I don't want to jinx myself, but I'm going with a super psyched climber to try this sucker saturday. I _think_ we should be able to get to the top, but just in case, how easy is it to bail off with a single 60m? Where is "the point of no return?" Phil Lauffen
From The Bubble
Joined Jun 20, 2008
2,193 points
Nov 5, 2009
Once you have Black, you will fear to go back...
I think a 70M is required to rap the 3rd pitch, although I have never tried it. Guy H.
From Fort Collins CO
Joined Jan 1, 2001
7,390 points
Administrator
Nov 5, 2009
tomato, tomotto, kill mike amato.
i dread the thought of it. slim
Joined Dec 1, 2004
2,071 points
Nov 5, 2009
pilon fracture
Don't worry about needing to bail Phil, worst comes to worst and you can aid/french free through any dificulties on p4 and 5. if you absolutely had to retreat, you can make an anchor with nuts to split up the p3 rap. but you won't need to. And, I bet some real eldo pros might chime in who know of a trick rap to a hidden station? but main point, don't sweat it, you'll be fine. Enjoy the exposure and sense of commitment. My working hypothesis, which can help calm the unsettled mind, is one can retreat from anywhere in eldo with a single rope if you're willing to part with a little gear. Wayne Crill
From an Altered State
Joined Jan 5, 2003
454 points
Nov 5, 2009
Me and Spearhead
The 3rd pitch is definitely the longest. Though when weather forced a retreat we had a 70M cord and it was two raps from the top of the 3rd to the ledge. I'm not sure but you might be able to rig some kind of anchor part way down the 3rd pitch if you don't have a 70.
have a great time, the weather looks stellar.
BA
Brent Apgar
From Out of the Loop
Joined Oct 20, 2007
143 points
Nov 5, 2009
I'll second Bob's comments about aiding the slot pitch. I also remember the pro being somewhat spaced getting up to the roof, it could be a challenge to aid. beavs
From Ft. Collins, CO
Joined Feb 20, 2006
271 points
Nov 5, 2009
If you can't do the slot pitch you can lower down to the belay and climb around to the left (5.8/9) and finish on T2. I think this was the original finish.
.
If you had to rappel from the slot you would have to stop part way down that pitch where there is a fixed pin and probably build a rap anchor with another one or two pieces. Then rap from there to the top of the next pitch and down from there. A 60m will work.

OR you can aid through the crux of the chimney and arrive at the belay where you could rap straight down or finish up the last pitch using ancient French free techniques.

Now you might ask how is it that I know all these options work? I've had to resort to one or the other or all of these at some point.

This is the best 5.11 climb in Colorado and possibly the universe. GET PSYCHED!
jack roberts
Joined Oct 30, 2002
62 points
Nov 5, 2009
I did this route a few hours ago and finished pitch 3 thinking that it wouldn't be very hard to rappel in 2 raps, but you'd have to trust a pin or back it up with a piece of gear. The only 5.11 moves on the whole climb you couldn't A0 would probably be on pitch 4, but as everyone has said, you can climb left from this belay and escape onto something much easier.

All belays are fixed and all pitches are less than 30m, except for p3. However, there are several good-looking pins and it's lower angle than the other pitches. It'd be pretty easy to descend p3 in 2 rappels, using one of the in-situ pins and/or a nut for your 2nd rappel. pretty cheap and not so epic.
blakeherrington
Joined Dec 12, 2006
1,109 points
Nov 5, 2009
Crux Move
WOW! There's a wealth of information here. Thanks for all of the info! I'm very psyched, it will definitely be an adventure! I'm definitely going to try and take all of the pitches I feel I have chance of making up, and since my partner is super soft from climbing in Yosemite all summer I'll probably have to drag him up the cruxes....

Once again thanks for all the positive encouragement!
I was half expecting people to tell me that it was way beyond my abilities.
Phil Lauffen
From The Bubble
Joined Jun 20, 2008
2,193 points
Administrator
Nov 6, 2009
tomato, tomotto, kill mike amato.
best 5.11 in colorado? that should go to a vote. i'm pretty sure wunch's or yellow wall would trounce the edge pretty severely. slim
Joined Dec 1, 2004
2,071 points
Nov 6, 2009
Just did this thang yesterday. Yee haw.

You'll want a 70 for sure to bail. Dont take one!!! Make yourself keep moving up!!!. I'd dread having to "aid" the bombay though.

Get er done!
SAL
From broomdigiddy
Joined Mar 23, 2007
729 points
Nov 6, 2009
just teasin' the sharks...
slim wrote:
best 5.11 in colorado? that should go to a vote. i'm pretty sure wunch's or yellow wall would trounce the edge pretty severely.


I think the Naked edge belongs up there with Wunsch's Dihedral and Yellow Wall. Hard to compare the three, though.
Dusty
From Fort Collins
Joined Apr 28, 2008
260 points
Nov 8, 2009
rockerwaves
I sure would love to tie in with you guys and do "The Edge" for the first time again. Olaf Mitchell
From Paia, Maui, Hi,
Joined Mar 16, 2007
4,261 points
Nov 8, 2009
Yosemite Valley..
Trip Report Phil??? Rob Kepley
From Westminster,CO
Joined Dec 28, 2005
1,154 points
Nov 8, 2009
Crux Move
Haha unfortunately there is not too much to report. The edge will have to wait through the winter for a successful ascent by any party composing of yours truly.

We got up to the base of the first pitch in fine form(the cave pitch is actually pretty cool). Colin blasted through the first part of the first pitch but then got stalled right above the ledge at the crux. He hung his way up, then I followed, actually falling on the 5.8 entry moves into the 5.9 crack. I thought, oh god, this is going to be a long pitch. But then I cruised the rest of it on tr no falls or takes.

However, the abundant pro had helped Colin avoid a long fall, and he wasn't really up for a letter grade harder with significantly less pro. I wasn't really ready for it either. So we retreated off with our tails between our legs to go find something a little easier. :(:(:(

oh well, I guess I'll just come back next summer when I'm ready to lead it, or find someone else who wants to lead the sucker earlier in the year.

It made me realize how easy it is to skid off some of those eldo slopers, even on 5.8. A sobering thought, because I free solo up to 5.6 on a regular basis. Mic and co. have some real gonads. It made me realize I'm not going to free solo anything harder than 5.6 unless I have the moves absolutely dialed.
Phil Lauffen
From The Bubble
Joined Jun 20, 2008
2,193 points
Nov 9, 2009
personal photo
Don't let it get ya, Phil. The first time I went up there, my partner and I were 5.9 guys just trying to deflower the mystique- we knew we were going to get worked. The scariest part was that accepted practice back then was to solo to the base. We generally "cheated" our way to the top and learned plenty to help with subsequent ascents. We weren't sophisticated enough to want to cherish an on-sight, we just wanted to summit. Pick a nice enough day and commit to a few hours of battle, you won't be disappointed. Mic Fairchild
From Boulder
Joined Jan 14, 2003
401 points
Nov 9, 2009
The Black Wall rim Mt. Evans, CO.
Phil,

Don't hang your head. Now you have the approach one step closer to dialed. Go again, and again, and again until it's sent. Read about some of the mountaineering/climbing greats - Riccardo Casin, Hermann Buhl, Reinhold Messner, John Gill, Henry Barber, Marc LeMenestral, etc... The common thread is they all failed regularly and succeeded only through persistence and determination.

On my current Eldo project, just last week, at the crux I was horrified of a clean 15' fall onto a bolt and mumbled out loud "I'm scard" before down climbing and taking a baby fall onto the bolt. I'll be back.

Time is on our side, let's use it wisely!
Joseph Crotty
From Broomfield, CO
Joined Nov 23, 2002
850 points
Aug 6, 2010
Crux Move
Well, today Rob Kepley dragged my ass up the naked edge! Thanks so much man! It is a great climb and I feel I can get the lead RP within a month or so. Just have to get back on it.

Thanks for all the good advice on here, and the solid belay Rob!
Phil Lauffen
From The Bubble
Joined Jun 20, 2008
2,193 points
Aug 6, 2010
Old Greg with his downstairs mix-up.
I need to get drug up that sucker before I leave my beloved CO next year. I know some sharpies that would be glad to do it. Just need to make it happen. Thanks for the thread/inspiration. Stucker
From Centennial, CO
Joined Aug 1, 2006
86 points


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