Baggins' Blunt Arete
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Jon Tashkin finds another line he hadn't done yet.
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This is an obvious, little, very squeezed line that sort of begs to be climbed. It's probably been done by one of the original N. Table developers - Hart brothers, Berk brothers, Trout, Nelson, Wright, or maybe Bilbo himself. The name is obviously a silly name which can be replaced by a real name when it becomes available...The Hobbit
just came out in DVD.
You can lead this protecting with predominantly small cams up to a #1 Camalot or...after doing one of the routes to the right (Virus
, Variation of the Virus
, or Thick Crust
), you can set a directional up high in the crack and toprope the blunt arete. If you avoid the chimney to the right, you can make it more interesting. The crux is near the top where the crack can take a tiny bite out of you.
This is probably only for those who have done most of the normal routes up there and are looking for an abnormal one.
Cams blue Alien to #1 Camalot. An extra #1 Camalot or a #2 Camalot works for a directionals at the top.
For a TR, a #1 or #2 Camalot-sized piece for a directional and slings off the anchor for The Virus
BETA PHOTO: A close view of the route.
By Jay Eggleston
May 6, 2013
This route is OK, but unless you have nothing else to climb, I can't recommend it. I doubt it has been climbed much. Maybe by Table old school climbers, but not likely.