|246 page views|
Pitch 1- Climb face and an intermediate crack system, past the left side of a block, past a ledge, to a smaller stance at good cams & nuts.
Pitch 2- Continue up steepening rock, taking advantage of all possible protection in the mostly closed crack. Tricky slab and face climbing leads over the bulge to the left of a large, pink block. Continue up past a ledge and easier ground to the start of a prominent groove. Belay from cams.
Pitch 3- Easy climbing up the groove leads to ledges above. 4th class 220'
Pitch 4- Up and slightly left for a very long pitch with no protection. Mostly 5.3 but with a short 5.5 bulge. (some simul-climbing involved) Belay on low angle ledges.
5.5x 260' (The summit register for Holey Ghost was found on top of this pitch)
Pitch 5- Move the belay right a hundred feet or so and climb the left side of the summit slab up left leaning holes and then onto the front and easier climbing leading to a belay in a groove below the top.
A couple hundred feet of easy scrambling lead to the summit and another register.
To descend, downclimb to the top of pitch 5 and down 4th class territory on the front of the slab to reach rappel anchors for the route "On a Wing and a Prayer". Three 60 meter rappels reach the bottom.
From the mouth of Uneva Mine Canyon, follow the trail north along the front of the slabs for a short distance to a side canyon on the left. Follow this small side canyon and as it turns left at the base of the slab, there is a cairn leaning against the slab. This is the start of the route.
We had a set of cams from 3/4" to 4" Some extra medium sizes would have been nice. We also brought a set of stoppers which were also very useful.
We did not leave any bolts or fixed protection on this route. We did however use the bolted anchors for On a Wing and a Prayer to descend. Thanks Paul!
Apr 7, 2010
...Well Ben glad you cleared that up ... Close shave!