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Supercrack Buttress
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Bad Rad Duality 
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Unknown 
Unknown on far left side of wall 
Unknown Right of Too Much Cake 
Unknown, left of Keyhole Flake 
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Wave, The 
Wild Works of Fire 
Zow 
Unsorted Routes:

Bad Rad Duality 

YDS: 5.10+ French: 6b+ Ewbanks: 21 UIAA: VII+ British: E3 5b

   
Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 120'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.10d French: 6b+ Ewbanks: 21 UIAA: VII+ British: E3 5b [details]
FA: Mic Fairchild & Bill Pelander, 1985
Page Views: 4,232
Submitted By: Tony B on Mar 1, 2001
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You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (47)
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BETA PHOTO: Bad Rad Duality. Ryan Sprackling, left toe on the ...

Description 

At the far left end of Supercrack Buttress, there is a tall and large left-facing crack system that starts thin and gets bigger as it rises to its 120' length. There is a section of questionable rock near the bottom, but the climb is good overall.

There is no particular crux, although I got worked in a section that once had a large loose block and sand behind it. (EDIT:) But this will not pull, I am told.


Protection 

Mostly 2" to 3.5" cams (lots of them). Take a wide piece for the top (4") and a few smaller ones for near the bottom.

There is a small amount of loose stuff near the bottom of the pitch. This makes a few moves and placements a little ennervating, but the fall potential isn't too bad. Just try to avoid the loose block, particularly with your gear.



Photos of Bad Rad Duality Slideshow Add Photo
Ryan freeing Bad Rad Duality's roof crux, last of the many 5.10+ sequences.  <br /> <br />Photo by Marsha.
Ryan freeing Bad Rad Duality's roof crux, last of ...
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Comments displayed oldest to newestSkip Ahead to the Most Recent Dated Oct 17, 2012
By Joe Collins
Sep 16, 2002

This is an awesome, varied, and long pitch... definitely a welcome change from some of the monotonous #2 and #3 camalot slogs on Supercrack Buttress. Worth at least 2 stars.

By david goldstein
Oct 3, 2002

I agree with the previous comment -- this is an excellent pitch, at least 2 stars, better than 3am, Supercrack, Painted Pony, Anasazi, Fingers ... and most of the other climbs on this cliff. Also, I do not feel it warrants an S.

By david goldstein
Nov 7, 2002

Tony, I've lead the route at least three times from 1991 to 2001 and never had any problems w/ breaking rock. For that matter, I never felt concerned and normally I'm paranoid about everything.

By Anonymous Coward
Nov 20, 2002

Loose rock? Welcome to desert climbing, my friend. I beleive the route is called Rad Bad Duality Crack - but that is no big deal. Donini said it all - "best pitch on this buttress". Three stars at least.

By Tony B
From: Around Boulder, CO
Nov 20, 2002

OK, so the block won't pull. I'm satisfied. I assure you that in late spring of 2002 that there was a loose rock at the bottom dumping sand out of it and that more than one person there that day got freaked by it, even following. And not gumbies, mind you; my partner is a 5.11 on-sight climber who's climbed there for 10 years. As for the other climbs on the buttress, I've done a majority of them.
I'd get called a bragart jerk if I said it isn't that bad and told that I'm going to hurt someone by downplaying it. Then I try to post cautions and I get 'downgraded' from hoity-toity to desert gumby.

EDIT: in 2009, the block is rock-solid & not budging.

By Casey Bernal
From: Arvada, CO
Nov 21, 2002

I don't think this route deserves the 'S' rating. Yes there is a loose block, but it is not hard to avoid tumbling it on you or your belayer. You can also pull up on it and it won't flop out. I have been on several towers which were much more spooky but no S rating. Being aware of the block and doing your best to avoid it makes it safer.

This is my favorite single pitch at supercrack buttress.

I will be in the creek after Tday. I am trying to avoid the whole supercrack buttress-battle of the bulge crowded mayhem, but if I get sucked into going there I will check it out. Has anyone tried to pull the block off?

By Max Schon
Nov 14, 2003

Looks like all the view points on the block have been covered, but I thought I'd just add my vote. The climb doesn't warrant an "s" rating and block, though loose, is not that dangerous. If you don't know how to pull on or around a loose block, well, you'd better not climb any towers in Utah.

By Anonymous Coward
Aug 18, 2004

It's gotta be the best pitch on the buttress if Donini said so. I've done seen his picture in a magazine or two.

By d-know
From: electric lady land
Jan 26, 2006
rating: 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ E3 5b

the bottom should not be a problem for the competent leader. my favorite corner on the whole cliff. the wide section up high is exciting but pretty easy.

By Mic Fairchild
From: Boulder
Dec 13, 2007
rating: 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ E3 5b

first ascent October 1985 by Mic and Bill. We eschewed the trend of putting "crack" into the route name, and called it Bad Rad Duality. Of note were the two big blocks (2'x3'x3') wedged into the corner about 40' up the route. It was scary for me to climb past and trundle them on the first ascent. We were a bit gear deficient back then, so it warranted an "R" rating, probably now overridden by a more generous selection of cams. A bit of loose rock remains on many desert climbs, so bring your gonads. Someday, we'll fire off that triangle roof and make a pitch 2 !!


edit: Derek Hersey told me it should be .11b. I'd say maybe, and stick with 10+.

By claramie
From: Boulder, CO
Mar 31, 2008

Could be the best route at the crag. Line just keeps going and going. Barley get down with a 70. The roofs at the end add to the pump but it's way easier than it looks. Doesn't warrant an S anywhere but the fingers on the side of the block down low are committing to start.

By caughtinside
From: Oakland CA
Nov 6, 2008

best route at the crag. varied sizes, varied moves, way fun

By Paul Irby
From: moab, ut
Aug 21, 2010

this thing is supercoool!!!

By brianadvenures
From: slc
Dec 10, 2010
rating: 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ E3 5c

I did this at the end of the day, and a bit tired, and could not layback into the offwidth section. I went from fingers to a chicken wing and was able to work that up a bit. One of the hardest moves I have ever done in the creek. Am I missing something here? any one else doing that?

By caughtinside
From: Oakland CA
Dec 10, 2010

hmm, don't recall any OW on this one. After the thin fingers start, all the cruxes seemed to be thin hands?

By Kevin DB
Oct 17, 2012
rating: 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ E3 5b

Pretty sick climb, if you have done the splitters, this one is well worth it. Maybe a little hard for the grade.