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 ADVANCED
Mesa Verde Wall
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Bad Moon Rising S 
Cosmos S 
Cows in Agony S 
Desolation Row T 
Down's Syndrome S 
Massive Luxury Overdose (aka Planet Luxury) S 
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Palo Verde T 
Reason To Be S 
Screaming Yellow Zonkers S 
Shadow of Doubt S 
Sundown T 
Tale of Two Shitties T 
Trezlar T 

Bad Moon Rising 

YDS: 5.11a French: 6c Ewbanks: 22 UIAA: VII+ ZA: 22 British: E3 5c

   
Type:  Sport, 90'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.11a French: 6c Ewbanks: 22 UIAA: VII+ ZA: 22 British: E3 5c [details]
FA: Jerry Messinger 1989
Page Views: 1,582
Submitted By: Bryson Slothower on Mar 7, 2006

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (22)
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Description 

Exciting route!
Start out with some wicked crimping down low (short people will probably hate this). Follow bolts up the small knobs on the face to the roof and crank through it to the anchor.


Location 

Right of the arete of Moons of Pluto. Look for the roof at the top of the pitch.


Protection 

draws



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By Andy Laakmann
Site Landlord
From: Bend, OR
May 13, 2007
rating: 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c

I only followed this, but the climbing is awesome. Crimpy at the bottom. Increasingly difficult knob pulling in the middle. And a big ol' roof at the end! Definitely a spicy lead above the last bolt... An excellent climb, and much longer than it looks - a 60m just makes the rap.

By 1Eric Rhicard
Jun 15, 2008

The initial moves off the stacked rocks get your fingers prepared for the better climbing above. Edges, knobs and a roof move how cool is that.

By richard magill
Jul 5, 2013

Great route, but sort of weirdly bolted at the top... usually, most any place you get to a roof, you clip over the top of the roof so you have a clean fall if you blow it. This one, the clip is under the roof, not too far from the previous clip. I could have easily clipped higher.

But I did the move, lunged to the big jug over the lip, and all was well. I was a bit spooked... but I still liked it. If anyone reading this ever messed up that roof move, I'd be curious if that was a clean fall. Post up...

By Whippin
From: Bend, OR
Aug 6, 2013

@richard I've fallen probably > 10 times at that roof. It's a perfectly clean fall, just a bit nerve-wracking. You've got 10 bolts clipped below you so it's a super soft catch.