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Bad Monkey 

YDS: 5.12 French: 7b+ Ewbanks: 27 UIAA: VIII+ British: E6 6b

Type:  Trad, Sport, 1 pitch, 55'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.12 French: 7b+ Ewbanks: 27 UIAA: VIII+ British: E6 6b [details]
New Route: Yes
Page Views: 695
Submitted By: nbrown on Jul 2, 2011
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Nearing the end...
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  • Description 

    For the past few years there have been a number of strong climbers to gawk up at this wild roof crack, only to write it off as impossible (at least to reach -- the start is blank). Recently, a friend (Andrew) made a great suggestion -- do a long & pumpy downward traverse across a heel hooking rail to reach the crack... and it actually goes fairly easily, or at least the traverse does! This climb can be done in the rainiest of conditions due to the huge roof features.

    Start up and right on top of boulder -- also have your belayer here. Climb past a #.4 camelot and 4 bolts (optional 1" cam) to the crack. The 4th bolt has a fixed draw for now (the bolt is high because of inadequate rock lower). Make a difficult transition into the crack and gain a desperate "rest" on the foot pedestal. Continue out the strenuous horizontal roof crack to an anchor at the lip.

    Note: The anchor was originally 15' higher than the current one. It's possible that some gifted climber could pull the final roof (likely at 5.13), but there are some logistical issues with that. I'd be happy to divulge more info if someone is interested.


    At the lower wall - obvious wide roof crack that climbs out of cave. It's the rightmost of 3 established lines here.


    4 bolts and a #.4 camelot protect the traverse. I used two #4 camelots to protect the roof crack, but anywhere from a #2 to #4 could be used since it is flared.

    Photos of Bad Monkey Slideshow Add Photo
    strenuous liebacking...
    strenuous liebacking...
    Frost on the traverse.
    Frost on the traverse.
    The crux
    The crux
    Frost following
    Frost following
    Part of the traverse.
    Part of the traverse.
    Good perspective of the roof.
    BETA PHOTO: Good perspective of the roof.
    Comments on Bad Monkey Add Comment
    Show which comments
    By TomCaldwell
    From: Clemson, S.C.
    Jul 6, 2011

    Nice work Nathan!

    By Phoffmann
    Aug 3, 2011

    You sure "spanked" it that day!

    By nbrown
    From: western NC
    Aug 21, 2011

    Thanks guys. Phil, I sure do appreciate you photographing it too...