Bad Man with a Devil's Hand
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BETA PHOTO: Reynold's.
This is a fun route up a previously unexplored section of the wall. It goes up through the "Elephant's Foot" to the right of Ain't Crack.
P1. The first pitch follows rotten flared crack up to the Elephant's Foot roof and passes it on right to follow 5.8 offwidth. Create a natural belay with gear from 3 to 4 inches at the water groove (long slings good to reduce rope drag at the roof).
P2. Next pitch angles up and left on the slab to a steep arete (cool exposure) following a line of bolts, 10b - take natural gear for the belay, #3 Camalot size.
P3. The last pitch is the crux on steep crystals to the right of Ain't Crack headwall to a bolt belay.
Maybe a more direct route is possible straight up to the arete left of the offwidth for a variation on first pitch, but you would need to be equipped with bolts maybe.
Take gear up to #4 Camalot and 8 draws. Use long slings to reduce rope drag on first and second pitches.