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Gorilla Rock
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Bad Girls Dream 
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Bad Girls Dream 

YDS: 5.11 French: 6c+ Ewbanks: 23 UIAA: VIII- British: E4 5c

   
Type:  Trad, 60'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.11 French: 6c+ Ewbanks: 23 UIAA: VIII- British: E4 5c [details]
FA: Bob Scarpelli
Page Views: 2,691
Submitted By: Justin Edl on Apr 15, 2006
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My friend, Bart, onsighting this route. I think t...

Description 

Stiff. Starts out as overhanging hands and fists and slowly widens to an offwidth crux where the crack goes from overhanging to less than vertical. Fairly easy climbing to the top. Beautiful route. Do it!

Hey Bob, why'd you call it Bad Girls Dream?

BECAUSE IT'S BIG AND HARD, BWA HA HA!


Location 

This is the right most crack in the left hand alcove.


Protection 

#3.5 to #6 Friends. doubles up to #5 useful. Anchor up top. Save some hand and fist stuff for the top, there is a crack to stuff it in. Be careful at the crux, more than one climber has either kicked/dragged their gear completely out, or come close to it, leaving them with ground fall potential.



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J moving outside the crack
J moving outside the crack
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By Bart Paull
From: Boulder, CO
Apr 6, 2008

One of the Vedauwoo's best. Either a highly acrobatic endeavour or a true test of core/calf strength. Watch the rock below, it is positioned to break your skull and neck if you fall the wrong way. I recommend ace bandages on the right calf for this one.