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Gorilla Rock
Routes Sorted
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Bad Girl's Dream T 
Bad Girls Do T 
Gash T 
Gloria T 
Little Monkey T 
Mexican Miracle Water T 
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Still a Gorilla T 
Unsorted Routes:

Bad Girl's Dream 

YDS: 5.11 French: 6c+ Ewbanks: 23 UIAA: VIII- ZA: 23 British: E4 5c

   
Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 60'
Original:  YDS: 5.11 French: 6c+ Ewbanks: 23 UIAA: VIII- ZA: 23 British: E4 5c [details]
FA: Bob Scarpelli
Page Views: 148
Submitted By: JNE on Apr 15, 2006

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (7)
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My friend, Bart, onsighting this route. I think t...

Dirt roads reopened as of June 2014 MORE INFO >>>

Description 

This is stiff. It starts out as overhanging hands and fists and slowly widens to an offwidth crux where the crack goes from overhanging to less than vertical. It is fairly easy climbing to the top. This is a beautiful route. Do it!

Hey Bob, why'd you call it Bad Girl's Dream?

BECAUSE IT'S BIG AND HARD, BWA, HA, HA!

Location 

This is the right most crack in the left hand alcove.

Protection 

#3.5 to #6 Friends. Doubles up to #5 are useful. There is an anchor up top. Save some hand and fist stuff for the top, there is a crack to stuff it in. Be careful at the crux, more than one climber has either kicked/dragged their gear completely out, or come close to it, leaving them with groundfall potential.


Photos of Bad Girl's Dream Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: J moving outside the crack.
J moving outside the crack.

Comments on Bad Girl's Dream Add Comment
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By Bart Paull
From: Boulder, CO
Apr 6, 2008

One of the Vedauwoo's best. Either a highly acrobatic endeavour or a true test of core/calf strength. Watch the rock below, it is positioned to break your skull and neck if you fall the wrong way. I recommend ace bandages on the right calf for this one.
By Kirk L
From: Fort Collins, CO
Jun 1, 2015

This thing felt way harder than Big Pink, IMO. I think Bart's comment is spot on unless you have fists the size of boxing gloves.
By honeyjacket
Sep 21, 2015

Two fives are definitely useful. Although it's possible to bump one through the crux, it would be gnarly to fall and not have the 5 catch. I bumped a 6 and then took it out and used it for the top section making it feel pretty casual. One of the best OWs out there!
By Rkrum
From: Denver, CO
Jul 1, 2016

Passive gear is nice to help avoid kicking your gear out going into the crux.

This thing is a motherfucker if you have small hands, like many of the 5.11 5" cracks here. Or I probably just suck, but I know I'm not the first smaller-than-average person to find this climb to be especially hard. However, regardless of if you get fists entering the crux, it has some of the most unique moves/sequences of any vertical OW in Vedauwoo. Not going to give away anything else, get on this climb. About as close to type 1 fun as hard wide cracks get.

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