|Type:||Sport, 1 pitch|
|Original:||YDS: 5.10a French: 6a Ewbanks: 18 UIAA: VI+ ZA: 18 British: E1 5a PG13 [details]|
|Submitted By:||CaseyDJones on Nov 10, 2013 with updates from Brian Scoggins|
|Seasonal Raptor Closures.|
|Comments on Bad Ethics||Add Comment|
|Show which comments —
From: Salt Lake City, UT
Sep 7, 2014
rating: 5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
This route is in no way PG13. It has two distinct cruxes. The first is technical and comes before the roof as you inch your way up the column with no feet and one crappy fingerlock in the crack. The second is pulling a stout roof but you pull the roof with a bolt right at your waist. More than adequately bolted, although I don't think this goes at 5.10a by any stretch of the imagination.
The route lies between the sport routes Snake Eyes (5.8) and Stemulus (5.11d).
By Brian Scoggins
From: Boise, ID
Mar 7, 2015
|That loose bolt really needs to go. I got suckered into thinking that the roof was an extension (looks that way from the ground), then got up there and found I was wrong. Up to those two bolts is a pleasant, if thin, 5.8|