Bad Day at Black Rocks
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Ken on Bad Day at Black Rocks, 5.10b.
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This is a fun route. It's a bit of a one-move wonder - the crux is a short boulder problem - but the moves are fun.
Start below two bolts low on the face left of an arete. Climb up the black face on small holds past the bolts (crux), then continue with easier moves up the face to a chain anchor (the same anchor as for Tie Me Tightly).
According to the Brock-McMillen guide, one can climb a second 5.8 pitch to the top of the cliff.
Bad Day at Black Rocks is on the far right edge of the wall right of the Mercedes corner (right of Mister Masters). This route is 60 feet left of Van Allen Belt and 15 feet left of a small cave.
2 bolts protect the crux; small nuts and aliens protect the upper face.
By Scott Gilliam
From: Raleigh, NC
Apr 13, 2013
Fun route if a bit contrived. An easy start from the left -- no 1st bolt -- flows nicely into the upper bit, but bouldering left or right from first to the second is cool. Climbing on upper face is nicely engaging.
By Charlie S
From: Ogden, UT
Mar 23, 2014
After clipping the first bolt, move left. Going to the right puts you on chossy rock (which broke on me).
Sparse gear unless you can hang on to one pad edges while working with small wires. Good holds can be found for rests but do not provide reasonable protection.
May 7, 2014
following the bolts straight up seem quite harder than the rating. if you step out left to moderate the start, the bolts are useless. middle section is actually kinda decent but also stout for the rating unless you slide out right, in which case the bolts are not helpful again. finally, you rap into a tree. many better climbs around. worst pitch in 5 days