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Sunnyside Crags
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Bad Day at Black Rocks 
Cold September Corner 
Gotham City 
Hot August Night 
Magellanic Cloud 
Mercedes 
Meteor 
Mister Freeze's Face 
Mister Masters 
Pit Bull 
Shady Ladies 
Spring Break 
Tarantula 
Tie me Tightly 
Van Allen Belt 
Water Dog 
Whiplash 
Whipper 

Bad Day at Black Rocks 

YDS: 5.10b French: 6a+ Ewbanks: 19 UIAA: VII- British: E2 5b

   
Type:  Trad, Sport, 1 pitch, 70'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.10b French: 6a+ Ewbanks: 19 UIAA: VII- British: E2 5b [details]
FA: Randy Marsh, Greg Child 1989
Page Views: 462
Submitted By: Dr. Evil on May 4, 2007
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Ken on Bad Day at Black Rocks, 5.10b.

Description 

This is a fun route. It's a bit of a one-move wonder - the crux is a short boulder problem - but the moves are fun.

Start below two bolts low on the face left of an arete. Climb up the black face on small holds past the bolts (crux), then continue with easier moves up the face to a chain anchor (the same anchor as for Tie Me Tightly).

According to the Brock-McMillen guide, one can climb a second 5.8 pitch to the top of the cliff.


Location 

Bad Day at Black Rocks is on the far right edge of the wall right of the Mercedes corner (right of Mister Masters). This route is 60 feet left of Van Allen Belt and 15 feet left of a small cave.


Protection 

2 bolts protect the crux; small nuts and aliens protect the upper face.



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By Scott Gilliam
From: Raleigh, NC
Apr 13, 2013

Fun route if a bit contrived. An easy start from the left -- no 1st bolt -- flows nicely into the upper bit, but bouldering left or right from first to the second is cool. Climbing on upper face is nicely engaging.

By Charlie S
From: Ogden, UT
Mar 23, 2014

After clipping the first bolt, move left. Going to the right puts you on chossy rock (which broke on me).

Sparse gear unless you can hang on to one pad edges while working with small wires. Good holds can be found for rests but do not provide reasonable protection.