|106 page views|
|Type: ||Trad, Alpine, 5 pitches, 500 feet, Grade II|
|Consensus: ||5.10a/b [details]|
|FA: ||Benny Abruzzo and John Kear|
|New Route: ||Yes|
|Submitted By: ||John Kear on Jun 26, 2012|
A pleasant multi-pitch outing that climbs a series of walls in the main drainage of upper la cueva canyon. This route allows one to climb out of la cueva canyon rather than hike.
P1 - Starts on the left side of the slot area about 150ft left of Heat Stroke. Climb a short and steep right facing corner to bulge stepping up and left to a small tree. Clear the bulge and climb slightly up and right past a bolt. Continue straight up passing a large scoop, climb another bulge and small cracks to a belay at 100ft. 5.10a
P2 - climb up and left for about 15 ft of good climbing then diagonal up and left about 100ft to a big ledge system with some large trees. Belay from one of the large trees closest to the wall above. 5.5
P3- Climb up and left to a bolt, the crux is an interesting step over just after the bolt. Continue up and slightly right following good edges and a sparsely protected seam until the seam eventually leads you up and left to a belay ledge at 100ft. 5.10a/b
P4 - Move the belay up to the next terrace 4th class.
P5 - Climb up a nice looking steep lieback crack the crack system is mostly fingers and thin hand size pieces, the lieback turns into a through and then ramblely face climbing to a number of belay options after about 100ft.
P6 - To get to the last pith of the route you need to climb down into a hanging terrace/forest and walk diagonally up hill to the base of a clean 30ft pillar. You will see a bolt about 20ft up. Climb the pillar and exit left across a ledge, pull a short steep boulder problem to another ledge then climb mostly straight up for 25ft or so until you can step left across a small ledge. Climb left into a nice crack system that becomes cool fingers. Follow this to the top and a gear/bolt bealy. 100ft 5.10a
The route starts left of the routes at the Slot area and climbs through many sections of upper la cueva canyon. The last pitch ends up and left of Miss Piggy by about 200ft. From the top there is a good climbers trail that leads straight up to the La Luz trail just below the stairs. About 20 minutes from the crest parking.
Standard Sandia rack to 2.5 inches bring extra 1-1.5 inch pieces (.5 camalot, red alien, orange metolious, etc...)
P1- one bolt, bolted anchor
P2 - no fixed gear
P3 - one bolt, bolted anchor,
P4 - no fixed gear,
P5 - one bolt plus gear/bolt anchor