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Bad Cat 

YDS: 5.12b French: 7b Ewbanks: 26 UIAA: VIII+ British: E5 6b

Type:  Trad
Consensus:  YDS: 5.12 French: 7b+ Ewbanks: 27 UIAA: VIII+ British: E6 6b [details]
FA: ?
Page Views: 2,955
Submitted By: TuffGong on May 9, 2002
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You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (18)
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Bad Cat


Bad Cat is to the right of Mad Dog and one route left of Johnny Cat. Bust through the left trending splitter finger crack and enter the shallow diehedral. Follow this to the top on pumping thin hand jams. An enduro-fest on killer sandstone.


Friends: #.5(2), #.75(3), #1.5(5), #2(8). 120' Good fixed anchor.

Photos of Bad Cat Slideshow Add Photo
trout hiking bad cat... alf belaying trout, two really nice desert rats
trout hiking bad cat... alf belaying trout, two re...
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Comments displayed oldest to newestSkip Ahead to the Most Recent Dated Nov 3, 2010
By Anonymous Coward
Jan 17, 2005

A thousand apologies people. The photo I submitted is for the route one right of Johnny Cat, it is 12b or maybe harder and I thought it was names Bad Cat. It turns out bad cat is the one to the LEFT of Johnny Cat. My mistake, please don't get confused. If someone knows the name of the route in the picture, you should post it, it is a very nice climb.

By Anonymous Coward
Jan 18, 2005

Climb pictured is "Splitters and Fritters" 12+ to the visible anchors, may now be extended up the seam at 13?.

By fishman
Apr 1, 2005
rating: 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- E6 6b

yep, splitters and fritters/ AKA Cat Burglar

By Timmy! Tormey
From: Fakeville, USA
Nov 24, 2006

Three stars??! Three stars??!!! Man, this climb is freaking rad and is deserving of much more than just three stars! Oh, and it is less than 120 feet, we had a 70M and had quite a bit of rope left.

By Josh Ewing
From: Bluff, UT
Mar 5, 2008
rating: 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ E6 6b

The splitter at the bottom is very sequential for me and certainly the crux. Solid 5.12. The rest is a 5.11 endurance fest. As for gear, you'll want at least one #1 friend (orange metolious) for the splitter. A purple metolious is helpful for reaching the splitter. Also, some 1 camalots are very helpful for the thin hands and fit better than the #2 friends. Green camalots are helpful as well. I only placed 2 #1.5 friends. A #3.5 friend is helpful near the top where a small flake in the crack makes the smaller gear a little sketchy.

By eric whewell
From: Boulder, CO
Nov 1, 2009

If you can campus on finger locks than the first 30 feet should be cruiser! A super pumpy and stellar route with good rests between the cruxes.

By slim
Jan 22, 2010
rating: 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ E5 6b

maybe steph davis was there the day before...

By Jason Lantz
Jan 23, 2010

Sport climbers.

By Paul Irby
From: moab, ut
Jan 29, 2010

YAHOOO!!!! I went back and led this thing clean after a cursory brushing. Turns out it goes without all the marks telling you where to put your hands and feet. Jason also gave it a good scrubbing (without removing to much of the actual rock) and, for now, it's tick mark free! Thanks Jason.

By chris Kalous
Nov 3, 2010
rating: 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ E5 6b

Bad Cat is filthy from being dormant. Bring a couple good brushes and be prepared to dog up the first go before sending this pitch. This applies to quite a few routes on the cat right now.