|Type:||Trad, 4 pitches, 370'|
|Original:||YDS: 5.11d French: 7a Ewbanks: 24 UIAA: VIII ZA: 25 British: E5 6a PG13 [details]|
|Fixed Hardware:||5 Lead Bolts [details]|
|Submitted By:||Perin Blanchard on Aug 8, 2009|
|Comments on Bad Bananas||Add Comment|
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By Perin Blanchard
From: Orem, UT
Sep 5, 2009
This isn't a four star route because of the rock or because of the climbing (although some of the movement is quite a bit of fun). It's a classic route because of history, intimidation factor, and exposure; completing it is a worthy accomplishment for Rock Canyon aficionados.
The Ruckman guide's description casts a foreboding pall:
"[T]he rock is rotten, the gear dubious, and the lines are hard to discern. Climbers should only attempt a route on this wall if it is well within their ability, and if they have considerable experience with loose, rotten rock".
This line is a serious undertaking, but is a very rewarding route.
Feb 7, 2012
This bad boy sure was an adventure.
I loved everything about the climb except the last pitch. The chimney is still full of massive loose blocks, so take care there.
For what it's worth, I thought the second pitch was the most fun I could have imagined having on a 5.5. Rounding the corner through the traverse was a memory. The moves that start of the third pitch are also some of the boldest i've ever had to do. The view is spectacular the whole way up, and all of the relics are really cool. The Ruckman's guide is right though. The last two pitches don't protect very easily and the rock is terrible in places, so take care if you haven't done a lot of climbing on this side of the canyon.
I'd highly recommend the route and wonder why it isn't done more often.
By Sam Cannon
From: Holladay, Utah
Mar 29, 2015
With full respect to Perin's comment and the ultimate subjectivity of any climb/experience, I did not feel like this route was a "serious undertaking." It climbs quite quickly and is really well protected. There is a lot of loose rock, but if you've climbed Trilogy or Squawstruck it's nothing worse than those, and certainly not as bad as their (respective) worsts.
The 11d roof was quite hard for me (following, no less), but it's really tightly bolted. The 5.5 pitch is mellow with good bolts. The 10a pitch is a blast (best of the route) with good protection. There is a lot of options for protecting this pitch, and oftentimes room for two pieces if you're sketching out about the rock, which is quite decent all things considered. The last pitch has some really fun climbing that protects really well for the first half or so, and then just head for/stay in the obvious chimney which isn't too fun but is very easy. There is a bolted line to the right of the chimney that I got suckered into, the few bolts I went up before realizing my mistake clocked in somewhere around 10c. No idea what it was, but it IS off route. Could be a more interesting finish than the dirty, guano drenched chimney.