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Royal Arches Boulder Cracks
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Bad Ass Momma 
Space Invaders 

Bad Ass Momma 

YDS: 5.11d French: 7a Ewbanks: 24 UIAA: VIII British: E5 6a

   
Type:  Trad, TR, 1 pitch, 35'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.11d French: 7a Ewbanks: 24 UIAA: VIII British: E5 6a [details]
FA: 
Page Views: 584
Submitted By: Bryan G on Apr 8, 2011
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Description 

This is like a narrower and harder (much harder!) version of Generator Crack. It starts off fists and then gets wide. I think the crux is near the start, before you can get a knee in, but it's pretty steep and physical the whole way.

Follow the Horse Trail past the Indian Caves until you start coming around to the east side of Washington Column. Bad Ass Momma is located on a huge boulder to the left of the trail. You can't see it from the trail and it's sort of difficult to describe where to turn off. Scramble up to the right to set up a toprope. The anchor takes 3-4" gear. You'll want gear up to at least 4.5" to lead it.

There's also a spectacular looking sport climb (5.hard!) on the same boulder around the corner to the right.


Protection 

pro to 5"



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By Bryan G
From: San Jose
Apr 8, 2011

Bad Ass Momma is recounted in the article "Levitation: The Off-Width Renaissance" by Randy Leavitt. The article is posted here:
www.widefetish.com/pages/how_to.html#leavittation
and here:
www.supertopo.com/climbing/thread.php?topic_id=417082

By David Aguasca!
From: New York
Jun 3, 2011

Alternate approach beta: Take the bike path from the Village east towards Mirror Lake. At the bathroom, jump on the rim trail that is right behind the bathroom. No more than 2-3 minutes later you will see a HUGE (house-sized) boulder on your left-hand side (north of the trail) with a small slab below it. Head up this, trending uphill and right, approximately 100 feet. Bad Ass Momma faces the trail, but it's hard to see from below.

By Alexey
From: San Jose
Sep 3, 2013

it oriented to south and has some morning shade until noon.
Good video how to
www.fishproducts.com/movies/bad_ass_momma.mov

The other way is calf lock/ hands stuck