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Apr 8, 2014
Rock Climbing Photo: Mt Minsi, PA
david goldstein wrote:


Yeah, I've belayed off of something like this once. Up on a big ledge, 2nd pitch.
Michael C
From New Jersey
Joined Jun 9, 2011
409 points
Apr 8, 2014
Rock Climbing Photo: Jonah at P1 Belay Triumvirate Wall
Here is one of my favorites.


Rock Climbing Photo: Sketchy Anchor
Sketchy Anchor
Jonah Klein
Joined Dec 3, 2013
376 points
Administrator
Apr 8, 2014
Rock Climbing Photo: Starting the second section of Live to climb anoth...
Brian C. wrote:
I saw this one 2 days ago...

Id use it in a pinch.
Brad "Stonyman" Killough
From Alabama
Joined Jan 18, 2008
5,967 points
Apr 9, 2014
Rock Climbing Photo: Rapping off the Royal Columns
Rock Climbing Photo: Top of Prime Cut
Top of Prime Cut
CameraisHeavy
From Everett, wa
Joined Apr 12, 2007
3,068 points
Apr 9, 2014
Rock Climbing Photo: CoR
Brad "Stonyman" Killough wrote:
Id use it in a pinch.


You mean if you used it you would get yourself in a pinch. That falls under the "feels good pretend anchor" category.
rging
From Salt Lake City, Ut
Joined Jul 18, 2011
195 points
Nov 2, 2014
Rock Climbing Photo: round 2 woop woop!
round 2 woop woop!
mr. mango
Joined Jan 18, 2012
127 points
Nov 3, 2014
Rock Climbing Photo: CoR
And in sandstone no less. Oh well, its just some crazy canyoneer. rging
From Salt Lake City, Ut
Joined Jul 18, 2011
195 points
Nov 4, 2014
Rock Climbing Photo: On Blanca after traversing from LB
I like this thread. Here are two more I have...


This is the single bolt I rappelled from the summit of the Sword of Damocles]]. The summit block had a single line of old cord but it was much less inspirational than this obviously "quality" bolt. Needless to say, I was quite happy to be back on the ground.


Here is the final rappel anchor on West Pawnee Butte. We had placed another anchor of equalized nails but decided these looked a little more secure. I'd guess they were close to a hundred years old. The webbing was ours, placed from an earlier ascent.
Brian C.
From Longmont, CO
Joined Feb 9, 2010
1,118 points
Nov 4, 2014
Rock Climbing Photo: Soloing upper tiers of Hayes falls
Rock Climbing Photo: Sketchy T-shirt sleeve and rock anchor.
Sketchy T-shirt sleeve and rock anchor.


This is a t-shirt sleeve anchored into a pocket with a rock.

I stumbled on this in Fort Leonard Wood, MO. I couldn't believe it when I found it.
SavvageA
From North Pole, AK
Joined Jan 30, 2012
20 points
Nov 4, 2014
Arianne Hendrick wrote:
This is a t-shirt sleeve anchored into a pocket with a rock. I stumbled on this in Fort Leonard Wood, MO. I couldn't believe it when I found it.


Wow. Just wow.
David Gibbs
From Ottawa, ON
Joined Aug 18, 2010
10 points
Sep 22, 2015
Rock Climbing Photo: BD Fuel


14ers.com/usercontent/trips/20...

14ers.com/php14ers/tripreport....
rocknice2
From Montreal, Quebec
Joined Nov 27, 2006
3,024 points
Sep 22, 2015


I took this photo of an anchor I'd built; the photo is used here completely out of context. While the rock was very poor, the lower three pieces were well placed and fully equalized for an upward pull. The green rope had run up and over the tower. The photo was taken after it was pulled and was intended to document the placements.
david goldstein
Joined Jan 1, 2001
2,701 points
Sep 22, 2015
Rock Climbing Photo: en route to wham ridge  Photo by Carl Schnitker
david goldstein wrote:
I took this photo of an anchor I'd built; the photo is used here completely out of context. While the rock was very poor, the lower three pieces were well placed and fully equalized for an upward pull. The green rope had run up and over the tower. The photo was taken after it was pulled and was intended to document the placements.

3 questions:

1 why would you back up the figure 8 with half hitches

2 why would you back up the figure 8 at all

3 did you just leave all that gear up there? if not, how did you get down?
eli poss
From Durango, Co
Joined May 9, 2014
390 points
Sep 22, 2015
Rock Climbing Photo: Next steps...
Well the hanger still looked purty good, but too bad about everything else...
Rock Climbing Photo: Bomber
Bomber
Jonathan Cunha
From Bolinas, CA
Joined May 25, 2014
70 points
Sep 22, 2015
eli poss wrote:
3 questions: 1 why would you back up the figure 8 with half hitches 2 why would you back up the figure 8 at all 3 did you just leave all that gear up there? if not, how did you get down?


The half hitches, which my friend apparently added to the system after it was initially rigged, are just basic "safety" knots used to shorten the tail of the knot, akin to standard practice when tying into a harness.

The anchor was at ground level and was designed to hold only an upward pull. Read the full TR if you really want to know more.
david goldstein
Joined Jan 1, 2001
2,701 points
Sep 22, 2015
eli poss wrote:
3 questions: 2 why would you back up the figure 8 at all 3 did you just leave all that gear up there?

The function of the half hitches is that an unweighted figure eight can come untied if jerked around enough. It has happened to me during an easy all day climb with no safely knot; it is terrifying.
matt c.
Joined Nov 19, 2009
154 points
Sep 22, 2015
Rock Climbing Photo: en route to wham ridge  Photo by Carl Schnitker
was the 8 properly dressed and snuggly tightened? I have a very hard time believing a well tied figure 8 would shake undone like a bowline. plus, i'd imagine the half hitches would shake undone long before the 8 would eli poss
From Durango, Co
Joined May 9, 2014
390 points
Sep 23, 2015
The knot was dressed and snugged down at the beginning of the day but there were no hanging belays so I never weighted the rope. I think squeeze/OW groveling throughout the day contributed to the state of the knot. matt c.
Joined Nov 19, 2009
154 points
Nov 11, 2015
Rock Climbing Photo: Heading up the best pitches of the route. Perfect ...
Found this recently at the top of Crooked Arrow Spire.

Who wants to highline???


Rock Climbing Photo: Crooked Arrow Spire highline anchor.
Crooked Arrow Spire highline anchor.
Eric Klammer
From Kremmtucky, CO
Joined Oct 10, 2012
2,049 points
Nov 11, 2015
They should have oriented the nut tool in the opposite direction, for it could possibly hook on something and save the day if all the rest of that failed.

Daisy wrapped through naked hanger... check.

Daisy girthed to high-line... check.

Maybe they could have used the extra nut tool carabiner in there somewhere?

There is a lot going on in that photo, and it makes me wonder what the other side looks like.

Edit to add:
I wonder if the shirt sleeve was intended to be just a marker of some sort.
BigFeet
From Texas
Joined May 5, 2014
367 points
Nov 11, 2015
Arianne Hendrick wrote:
This is a t-shirt sleeve anchored into a pocket with a rock. I stumbled on this in Fort Leonard Wood, MO. I couldn't believe it when I found it.


We have a winner!
EricL
From Roseville, CA
Joined Jan 23, 2015
11 points
Mar 13, 2016
Rock Climbing Photo: Saw this gem at my local crag. this guy hates his ...
Saw this gem at my local crag. this guy hates his rope. Sorry about the picture quality.
NikF
Joined Mar 13, 2016
5 points
Mar 16, 2016
Rock Climbing Photo: Red Rocks/Settler's Park rappel ledge
Just another canyoneering anchor. (Big slung rock with other rocks in front of it on a 25-30 degree incline). Meat backup.
Rock Climbing Photo: Just another canyoneering anchor...
Just another canyoneering anchor...
Carl Marvin
From Boulder, Colorado
Joined Nov 14, 2013
22 points
Mar 16, 2016
Rock Climbing Photo: Bomber
Bomber
Sir Camsalot
From thankgodchickenhead, Ut
Joined Sep 7, 2007
191 points
Administrator
Mar 16, 2016
Rock Climbing Photo: Me and Blaster.
Some excellent old crap descending from Vision Quest at Indian Creek. Yes these anchors sit right next to much better anchors.
Rock Climbing Photo: crap
crap


Rock Climbing Photo: crap 2
crap 2
Hank Caylor
From Golden, CO
Joined Dec 9, 2003
673 points


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