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May 18, 2013
Rock Climbing Photo: Wow
Wow
mr. mango
Joined Jan 18, 2012
107 points
May 19, 2013
Dan Allard wrote:
came across these today and made me think of this thread thailandrocks.com/safety.htm


What the hell.
wankel7
From Indiana
Joined Oct 4, 2010
17 points
May 19, 2013
Rock Climbing Photo: ...
LOL!

Locker
From Yucca Valley, CA
Joined Oct 13, 2002
2,515 points
Jun 4, 2013
Rock Climbing Photo: Tyrol
I found that pic in an Austrian climbing forum:

Rock Climbing Photo: source: gipfeltreffen.at
source: gipfeltreffen.at


I think you have to be registered to see the other pics: gipfeltreffen.at/showthread.ph...
trese
From Salzburg/Innsbruck/Munich
Joined Apr 22, 2011
164 points
Jun 4, 2013
Rock Climbing Photo: El Cajon Mtn. Leonids. 5.9.
Lucky Mr. Mango got pic before the wind blew it out. ChaseLeoncini
From San Diego, California
Joined Aug 22, 2012
145 points
Jun 4, 2013
Rock Climbing Photo: CoR
mr. mango wrote:


The hangar looks like it was recovered as part of the Titanic ship wreck salvage but the bolt (head at least) isn't rusted. How is that possible?
rging
From Salt Lake City, Ut
Joined Jul 18, 2011
185 points
Jun 4, 2013
Rock Climbing Photo: Edge of an Age. Beautiful canary cracks in backgro...
rging wrote:
The hangar looks like it was recovered as part of the Titanic ship wreck salvage but the bolt (head at least) isn't rusted. How is that possible?

dissimilar metals, galvanic corrosion, etc..
Darren Mabe
From Flagstaff, AZ
Joined Dec 12, 2002
3,921 points
Jun 4, 2013
Rock Climbing Photo: Hippos kill people
Rock Climbing Photo: This passes for a bomber rap anchor in S Korea
This passes for a bomber rap anchor in S Korea


not even sure how they put the big rusty nail into the solid granite face... but i was happy when i rapped down to the next (sketchy) anchors, this is at the top of Chuinard A and Chuinard B, both great routes at Insubong (B is much better though), just outside of Seoul, SK.
germsauce
Joined Jun 14, 2010
71 points
Jun 4, 2013
Rock Climbing Photo: Climbing at the Gallery in Red Rocks
Darren Mabe wrote:
dissimilar metals, galvanic corrosion, etc..


Probably not galvanic corrosion, if it were galvanic corrosion you'd just see corrosion right around where the bolt comes in contact with the hanger. That looks like it's just uniform corrosion on the non-stainless hanger caused by a wet (and possibly salty) environment. The bolt is stainless which is why it still looks good.
kennoyce
From Layton, UT
Joined Aug 12, 2010
1,882 points
Jun 4, 2013
Rock Climbing Photo: Edge of an Age. Beautiful canary cracks in backgro...
kennoyce wrote:
Probably not galvanic corrosion, if it were galvanic corrosion you'd just see corrosion right around where the bolt comes in contact with the hanger. That looks like it's just uniform corrosion on the non-stainless hanger caused by a wet (and possibly salty) environment. The bolt is stainless which is why it still looks good.

touche!
Darren Mabe
From Flagstaff, AZ
Joined Dec 12, 2002
3,921 points
Jun 4, 2013
Rock Climbing Photo: Desert Tortoise


And here I thought this was sketch!
Stu Ritchie
From Denver
Joined Dec 4, 2007
1,768 points
Jun 4, 2013
Rock Climbing Photo: Desert Tortoise


Of course it's always a great idea to back up brand new shiney bolts with ancient crap!
Stu Ritchie
From Denver
Joined Dec 4, 2007
1,768 points
Jun 5, 2013
Stu Ritchie wrote:
Of course it's always a great idea to back up brand new shiney bolts with ancient crap!

Nice one ! But maybe this is just a bolted bouldering problem... And somebody left the sling during an epic retreat in the middle of a storm ?!
verticon
From Europe
Joined Jul 16, 2008
5 points
Administrator
Jun 7, 2013
Darren Mabe wrote:
dissimilar metals, galvanic corrosion, etc..


There's no indication of galvanic corrosion in the photo. The bolt and washer are stainless steel. The hanger was probably originally galvanized, but the Zn is long gone, so what you see is common rust.
John Byrnes
From Fort Collins, CO
Joined Dec 11, 2007
391 points
Jun 7, 2013
Rock Climbing Photo: Me at the belay on bear creek spire
mr. mango wrote:

Hey that's my pic! I thought you wrote "post your pics". Uploaded 2011
Brian Snider
From NorCal
Joined Mar 24, 2010
774 points
Jun 7, 2013
Rock Climbing Photo: Me at the belay on bear creek spire
Bold TextAnd this thread already exists, see here. Brian Snider
From NorCal
Joined Mar 24, 2010
774 points
Jun 9, 2013
Rock Climbing Photo: Profile Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: Hangerless bolts should always come with wingnuts.
Hangerless bolts should always come with wingnuts.

Found on the Southwest Face of the Wedge outside of Butte, Montana.
Ty Morrison-Heath
From Bozeman, MT
Joined Mar 22, 2011
2,110 points
Apr 4, 2014
Rock Climbing Photo: Hmmm
Hmmm
mr. mango
Joined Jan 18, 2012
107 points
Apr 4, 2014
Rock Climbing Photo: Entirety of the belay and rap anchor on the summit...
Entirety of the belay and rap anchor on the summit of Pt 6350, a towerette near Gateway, CO.
david goldstein
Joined Jan 1, 2001
2,701 points
Apr 4, 2014
Rock Climbing Photo: Hanging out with Karin on the summit of Warlock Ne...
Ha ha mr. mango - you were there before May 23, 2008…I just couldn't bring myself to pull that historical bolt since I had to drill a new hole regardless (very tough to reuse the old hole with ancient rusty 3/8" Star-Dryvins - at least with a hand drill). I don't know what's up with the other old hole, they probably broke the drill bit or the first bolt and had to start again!

Rock Climbing Photo: New and old, 5/23/08.
New and old, 5/23/08.
Greg Barnes
Joined Apr 10, 2006
1,660 points
Apr 4, 2014
Rock Climbing Photo: Start of Pitch 3
Can't believe this hasn't been posted. This makes all the rest look bomber...

Rock Climbing Photo: A6 Anchor
A6 Anchor


"A6" anchor on Fisher Towers
alleyehave
From San Diego, CA
Joined Jun 12, 2010
176 points
Apr 4, 2014
Rock Climbing Photo: Mt. Agassiz
alleyehave wrote:
Can't believe this hasn't been posted. This makes all the rest look bomber... "A6" anchor on Fisher Towers


Because the whole route is a contrived piece of shit, and at no part is it A6?

conclusivesystems.com/danger/

supertopo.com/climbers-forum/1...
Ryan Nevius
From The Range of Light
Joined Dec 29, 2010
815 points
Apr 4, 2014
Bomber anchor in Huasteca, NL Mexico. Hardware store cord around a dead nub
Rock Climbing Photo: hardware store cord around a dead bush nub
hardware store cord around a dead bush nub
Mark Grundon
Joined Feb 18, 2011
1,158 points
Apr 6, 2014
20 kN wrote:
A bit OT, but there is something worth noting about bad anchors. While I dont have a serious issue with R/X routes and bad anchors on unpopular routes in major climbing areas, I do have somewhat of an issue with them at smaller crags. The problem is that when someone is killed, for whatever reason, and the landowner does not have any form of legal protection, he/she/it may be well inclined to ban climbing. One person gets killed from a crappy 1/4" bolt and everyone looses their right to climb at the crag. When that happens it is a complete utter bitch to reopen the area. It takes years, sometimes over five years, to get things worked out. In some cases, the area is never reopened. Additionally, it takes thousands of hours of hard "95% of the work is done by 5% of the people"-type work to get the area reopened. All because of one injury or death. Thus, in areas where closures are a concern, I think the community as a whole has a duty to eliminate dangerous routes and bad hardware. Access is more important than bolting ethics or ego.



+1
J Meagher
Joined Oct 21, 2012
314 points
Apr 6, 2014
Rock Climbing Photo: Start of Pitch 3
Ryan Nevius wrote:
Because the whole route is a contrived piece of shit, and at no part is it A6? conclusivesystems.com/danger/ supertopo.com/climbers-forum/1...


Easy aggro, point made...
alleyehave
From San Diego, CA
Joined Jun 12, 2010
176 points


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