Sign Up  |   Log In:Login with Facebook
REI Community
Bad anchors
View Latest Posts in This Forum or All Forums
Page 4 of 6.  <<First   <Prev   2  3  4  5  6   Next>   Last>>
Follow replies to this topic? Notify me at the top of web site.
1

Email me.
 
Mar 13, 2013
Rock Climbing Photo: Rrrrr
Austin Baird wrote:
I recommend that every canyoneer carry a Jake Day for emergency anchoring purposes. 275 pounds of Wyoming-bred anchoring awesomeness.


Can a Jake Day be used as a snow anchor?
Buff Johnson
Joined Dec 19, 2005
1,504 points
Mar 23, 2013
Rock Climbing Photo: Pear buttress
Pear buttress


Pear buttress nut/pin anchor. definitely one of my favorite climbs, but sketch anchor. but it stays put so...
mattharon
Joined Apr 11, 2011
223 points
Mar 24, 2013
Matty H wrote:
Pear buttress nut/pin anchor. definitely one of my favorite climbs, but sketch anchor. but it stays put so...


this reminds me of the old anchor on Sinsemilla Crack in the Wasatch
T Roper
From DC,VA,NM,UT,CT,MA
Joined Mar 31, 2006
1,061 points
Mar 24, 2013
Rock Climbing Photo: ...
"Pear buttress nut/pin anchor. definitely one of my favorite climbs, but sketch anchor. but it stays put so..."


Looks pretty SOLID to me. Not sure how "SKETCH" that makes it.
Locker
From Yucca Valley, CA
Joined Oct 13, 2002
2,462 points
Mar 25, 2013
Rock Climbing Photo: Climbing at the Gallery in Red Rocks
Locker wrote:
Looks pretty SOLID to me. Not sure how "SKETCH" that makes it.


Just what I was thinking.
kennoyce
From Layton, UT
Joined Aug 12, 2010
1,627 points
Mar 25, 2013
Rock Climbing Photo: On Blanca after traversing from LB
Locker wrote:
"Pear buttress nut/pin anchor. definitely one of my favorite climbs, but sketch anchor. but it stays put so..." Looks pretty SOLID to me. Not sure how "SKETCH" that makes it.


Me too! When I think of sketchy anchors I think of stuff like this...
Brian C.
From Longmont, CO
Joined Feb 9, 2010
1,107 points
Mar 25, 2013
Rock Climbing Photo: One of my first trad climbs, Ooga Chocka at Crowde...
Matty H wrote:
Pear buttress nut/pin anchor. definitely one of my favorite climbs, but sketch anchor. but it stays put so...


That thing is bomber!
sanz
From Raleigh, NC
Joined Nov 7, 2011
262 points
Mar 25, 2013
Rock Climbing Photo: Whitehorse
Classic
Rock Climbing Photo: Courtesy of the Bird
Courtesy of the Bird
Timothy
From Fort Collins, Colorado
Joined Feb 25, 2011
44 points
Mar 25, 2013
That RURP anchor is awesome! Jace Mullen
From Oceanside, Ca
Joined Jan 11, 2011
6 points
Apr 2, 2013
Rock Climbing Photo: north wash
Rock Climbing Photo: What?
What?
mr. mango
Joined Jan 18, 2012
102 points
Apr 3, 2013
Rock Climbing Photo: My cool Elly....
what - what????
If we go on stretched rope we do the same..... and it looks like it's pretty easy terrain.....
Pitty
From Marbach
Joined Apr 27, 2011
68 points
Apr 4, 2013
Rock Climbing Photo: north wash
It's just that they sort of look like paper clips with a caribiner attached. mr. mango
Joined Jan 18, 2012
102 points
Apr 4, 2013
Rock Climbing Photo: beaz-pack
Rock Climbing Photo: Hmmmm
Hmmmm
ben jammin
From Moab, UT
Joined Jul 10, 2008
737 points
Apr 4, 2013
Rock Climbing Photo: Climbing at the Gallery in Red Rocks
mr. mango wrote:
It's just that they sort of look like paper clips with a caribiner attached.


That's a Raumer stainless in-line anchor set and is about as bomber as an anchor can get.
kennoyce
From Layton, UT
Joined Aug 12, 2010
1,627 points
Apr 4, 2013
Rock Climbing Photo: Shelf Rd
Here's a nice one:
Rock Climbing Photo: sketch-tastic
sketch-tastic


Taken from Eli's site... he's got a couple of other good ones too
climbinglife.com/beta/tech-tip...
Kenan
Joined Apr 15, 2010
1,255 points
Apr 4, 2013
Rock Climbing Photo: north wash
kennoyce wrote:
That's a Raumer stainless in-line anchor set and is about as bomber as an anchor can get.

Fine it just looks thin to me. I will stick with my chains.
mr. mango
Joined Jan 18, 2012
102 points
Apr 4, 2013
mr. mango wrote:
Fine it just looks thin to me. I will stick with my chains.

Those ARE chains, they just happen to be longer chain links than you're used to. Those anchors are rated to 27kN: raumerclimbing.com/eng/prodott...

I'm disappointed with how bomber most of the anchors are in this thread...
Ian Stewart
Joined May 17, 2010
166 points
Apr 4, 2013
Kenan wrote:
Here's a nice one: Taken from Eli's site... he's got a couple of other good ones too climbinglife.com/beta/tech-tip...


OK, that's a bad anchor. As if rusty pitons don't scare me enough, that whole anchor is rigged such that the failure of any piece will result in the failure of the entire system. It would have taken zero extra effort and gear to make that anchor much, much, much safer.
Ian Stewart
Joined May 17, 2010
166 points
Apr 4, 2013
Rock Climbing Photo: Living the High Life.
I'll add some:
Rock Climbing Photo: Bomber!
Bomber!


Rap anchor on the Petit Grepon, 2008
Two ancient pins back up by two frayed knots in the crack. Ugh.


Rock Climbing Photo: Totally Bomber!
Totally Bomber!

Anchor in Leprechaun Canyon, Main Fork, 2013, a bag of sand buried in more sand with a small rock on top. Ugghhhhh.

Canyoneers are crazy. Old single bolt or drilled pin rap anchors in sandstone are de rigor in the canyons of the Colorado Plateau. Climbers like us are pansies in comparison.
Andy Novak
From Golden, Co
Joined Aug 22, 2007
337 points
Apr 4, 2013
Rock Climbing Photo: Shelf Rd
Andy Novak wrote:
Anchor in Leprechaun Canyon, Main Fork, 2013, a bag of sand buried in more sand with a small rock on top. Ugghhhhh


Wow, takes the term 'sandbagged' to a whole new level, eh?
Kenan
Joined Apr 15, 2010
1,255 points
Apr 4, 2013
Rock Climbing Photo: blah
I will vouch for the sand trap being a stupid thing that will hold body weight. by no means would i start praising its virtues but it works. also the Christmas present Deadman is pretty effective and terrifying anchor... but hey I am no canyoneer Rob Warden, Space Lizard
From Springdale Ut
Joined Dec 19, 2011
101 points
Apr 5, 2013
MIYG wrote:


That is the reason I carry nuts with me :p
wankel7
From Indiana
Joined Oct 4, 2010
17 points
Apr 5, 2013
Andy Novak wrote:
Climbers like us are pansies in comparison.


Well they aren't planning on holding falls with their anchors...
NorCalNomad
From San Francisco
Joined Oct 6, 2011
116 points
Apr 5, 2013
Rock Climbing Photo: Me




Gwut
Joined Mar 17, 2013
80 points
Apr 5, 2013
The nylon on nylon action in that one isn't optimal, but the thread looks solid enough. michaeltarne
Joined Jan 2, 2011
124 points


Follow replies to this topic? Notify me at the top of web site.
1

Email me.
Page 4 of 6.  <<First   <Prev   2  3  4  5  6   Next>   Last>>

The Definitive
Climbing Resource

Inspiration & Motivation
to Fuel Your Run

Next Generation Mountain
Bike Trail Maps

Backcountry, Sidecountry
& Secret Stashes

Better Data. Better Tools.
Better Hikes!