Sign Up  |   Log In:Login with Facebook
REI Community
Physical Crag
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
Bacon and Ergs T,TR 
Bacon Bits T 
Crown Joules T,TR 
Dyne and Dash T,TR 
EarthQuark T,TR 
Ergonomics T 
Fission Chips T,TR 
Ohm on the Range T 
Pole Vault T 
Watts For Dinner T 
Watts Left Over T 

Bacon and Ergs 

YDS: 5.11b/c French: 6c+ Ewbanks: 23 UIAA: VIII- ZA: 24 British: E4 6a PG13

Type:  Trad, TR, 1 pitch, 70'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.11b French: 6c Ewbanks: 23 UIAA: VIII- ZA: 23 British: E3 5c [details]
FA: Alec Sharp, 1981(?)
Page Views: 2,152
Submitted By: Tony B on Jul 3, 2004

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (3)
Your todo list:
Your stars:
Your rating: -none- [change]
Your ticklist: [add new tick]
Your opinion of this PAGE:    [0 people like this page.]
Eric Goukas sending Bacon and Ergs. Photo: Bob Hor...

Bastille - M-F closures. Climbing reopened after flood MORE INFO >>>


This is the most obvious Route at Physical crag, as you can easily see it for 1/2 mile away. It's big, it's wide, it overhangs like crazy for the first half. Approach Physical crag's upper-right-hand tier and stand below the yawning crack. Go up it. The climb is not what it appears to be, so approach it with no prejudices. OW & squeeze technique will be useful, but not necessary for a sucsessful ascent of this bizare line. I give this 4 stars due to the wild and unique nature of the route, which I can't say too much about without spoiling the adventure of it.


Either top rope it with some swing potential- maybe into a pine tree, or TR on stoppers and medium cams + a long cord.

Or go buy some OW pro. Big Bros protect the first 20' which are much larger than #5 camalot. As well, you can lasso a few chockstones with 4' slings if so desired. 2' slings won't be long enough. After pulling through the top of the bulge, the size is more manageable and the grade much easier. Takes a standard set of cams to finish.

Photos of Bacon and Ergs Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: It looks even steeper from directly below.
It looks even steeper from directly below.
Rock Climbing Photo: Tony starting the crux. From completely inside the...
Tony starting the crux. From completely inside the...
Rock Climbing Photo: It looks even steeper from directly below. The pho...
It looks even steeper from directly below. The pho...

Comments on Bacon and Ergs Add Comment
Show which comments
By Tony B
From: Around Boulder, CO
Jul 9, 2004

I would have said the crux was getting off of the chockstone, with the move to it being hard, but not quite as hard. It will probably depend upon body size- with skinney people finding the lower part eisier and people with VERY long arms (we're talking LOOOONG here) finding the top less difficult.
By Steve Annecone
From: boulder
Mar 21, 2005
rating: 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c

This is an outrageous climb, a must-do for offwidth lovers! More than good OW technique, this seems to require a serious abs workout, and general tenacity and endurance. I didn't lead it, but the protection seems fine if you have some large cams, bigger than the #5 Camalot. Can now be rapped from two slung chockstones at the top... otherwise, an interesting 4th class descent.

The Definitive
Climbing Resource

Inspiration & Motivation
to Fuel Your Run

Next Generation Mountain
Bike Trail Maps

Backcountry, Sidecountry
& Secret Stashes

Better Data. Better Tools.
Better Hikes!