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Physical Crag
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Bacon and Ergs 

YDS: 5.11b/c French: 6c+ Ewbanks: 23 UIAA: VIII- British: E4 6a PG13

   
Type: Trad, TR, 1 pitch, 70'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.11 French: 6c+ Ewbanks: 23 UIAA: VIII- British: E4 5c [details]
FA: Alec Sharp, 1981(?)
Page Views: 1,714
Submitted By: Tony B on Jul 3, 2004
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You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (3)
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Tony starting the crux. From completely inside the...

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Climbing reopened after flood MORE INFO >>>

Description 

This is the most obvious Route at Physical crag, as you can easily see it for 1/2 mile away. It's big, it's wide, it overhangs like crazy for the first half. Approach Physical crag's upper-right-hand tier and stand below the yawning crack. Go up it. The climb is not what it appears to be, so approach it with no prejudices. OW & squeeze technique will be useful, but not necessary for a sucsessful ascent of this bizare line. I give this 4 stars due to the wild and unique nature of the route, which I can't say too much about without spoiling the adventure of it.


Protection 

Either top rope it with some swing potential- maybe into a pine tree, or TR on stoppers and medium cams + a long cord.

Or go buy some OW pro. Big Bros protect the first 20' which are much larger than #5 camalot. As well, you can lasso a few chockstones with 4' slings if so desired. 2' slings won't be long enough. After pulling through the top of the bulge, the size is more manageable and the grade much easier. Takes a standard set of cams to finish.



Photos of Bacon and Ergs Slideshow Add Photo
It looks even steeper from directly below.
It looks even steeper from directly below.
It looks even steeper from directly below. The photo posted before this is from below.
It looks even steeper from directly below. The pho...
Eric Goukas sending Bacon and Ergs. Photo: Bob Horan Collection.
Eric Goukas sending Bacon and Ergs. Photo: Bob Hor...
Comments on Bacon and Ergs Add Comment
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By Tony B
From: Around Boulder, CO
Jul 9, 2004

I would have said the crux was getting off of the chockstone, with the move to it being hard, but not quite as hard. It will probably depend upon body size- with skinney people finding the lower part eisier and people with VERY long arms (we're talking LOOOONG here) finding the top less difficult.

By Steve Annecone
From: boulder
Mar 21, 2005
rating: 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- E3 5c

This is an outrageous climb, a must-do for offwidth lovers! More than good OW technique, this seems to require a serious abs workout, and general tenacity and endurance. I didn't lead it, but the protection seems fine if you have some large cams, bigger than the #5 Camalot. Can now be rapped from two slung chockstones at the top... otherwise, an interesting 4th class descent.