Type: |
Trad, Sport, 80 ft (24 m)
Fixed Hardware
(2) |
FA: | Jimmy Ratzliff & Austin Weis - 1987 |
Page Views: | 1,288 total · 5/month |
Shared By: | Josh Janes on Oct 25, 2002 |
Admins: | Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac, Tyler KC |
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Access Issue: Rockfall Access Effect & Subject to Seasonal Raptor Closures
Details
Per Dustin Bergman, Eldorado Canyon State Park Officer: the upper third of the West Redgarden trail and Rewritten descent trail suffered significant damage during that storm that came through a few weeks ago. Please consider choosing alternates routes lower on the trail.
Beginning Feb. 1st each year, a seasonal wildlife closure will be in effect on Redgarden Wall in Eldorado Canyon State Park to protect nesting and roosting sites of the canyons falcons. The closure is in effect through July 31st unless lifted early due to early fledging or inactivity.
The closure includes the following climbing routes: The Naked Edge (last 3 pitches only), The Diving Board, Centaur, Redguard (last 3 pitches only), Red Ant, Semi-Wild, Anthill Direct (last 3 pitches only), and The Sidetrack.
For more info, visit dnr.state.co.us/newsapp/pre…
Beginning Feb. 1st each year, a seasonal wildlife closure will be in effect on Redgarden Wall in Eldorado Canyon State Park to protect nesting and roosting sites of the canyons falcons. The closure is in effect through July 31st unless lifted early due to early fledging or inactivity.
The closure includes the following climbing routes: The Naked Edge (last 3 pitches only), The Diving Board, Centaur, Redguard (last 3 pitches only), Red Ant, Semi-Wild, Anthill Direct (last 3 pitches only), and The Sidetrack.
For more info, visit dnr.state.co.us/newsapp/pre…
Access Issue: 2023 Seasonal Closures - lifted
Details
Update: as of 6/7/23 per Mike McHugh, ECSP: all closures have been lifted within Eldorado Canyon State Park, including Continental Crag.
Crags on Eldorado Mountain, such as Mickey Mouse wall and Cryptic Crags, are outside of park boundaries and may still be subject to Boulder County closures.
Previously in 2023: per M. McHugh, ECSP: the upper loop of the Rattlesnake Gulch Trail, above the Crags Hotel Ruin, & the
Continental Divide Overlook, is closed effective immediately. This included Continental Crag.
These areas are closed to all activities, including rock climbing & hiking, through 7/15 or until further notice, to protect nesting golden eagles on the S side of the canyon.
Golden Eagles are protected by the U.S. Fish & Wildlife Service under authority of the Bald and Golden Eagle Protection Act and the Migratory Bird Treaty Act. A conviction of nest disturbance can carry a fine to $5,000 & one year imprisonment.
See the map in the photo section for terrain closure.
Previous years: per Dustin Bergman, CO State Parks Officer #770, ECSP:
Seasonal Raptor Closures
Check Park site for current closures:
cpw.state.co.us/placestogo/…
For more info visit:
cpw.state.co.us/placestogo/…
Double check prior to venturing there. Thanks!
Crags on Eldorado Mountain, such as Mickey Mouse wall and Cryptic Crags, are outside of park boundaries and may still be subject to Boulder County closures.
Previously in 2023: per M. McHugh, ECSP: the upper loop of the Rattlesnake Gulch Trail, above the Crags Hotel Ruin, & the
Continental Divide Overlook, is closed effective immediately. This included Continental Crag.
These areas are closed to all activities, including rock climbing & hiking, through 7/15 or until further notice, to protect nesting golden eagles on the S side of the canyon.
Golden Eagles are protected by the U.S. Fish & Wildlife Service under authority of the Bald and Golden Eagle Protection Act and the Migratory Bird Treaty Act. A conviction of nest disturbance can carry a fine to $5,000 & one year imprisonment.
See the map in the photo section for terrain closure.
Previous years: per Dustin Bergman, CO State Parks Officer #770, ECSP:
Seasonal Raptor Closures
Check Park site for current closures:
cpw.state.co.us/placestogo/…
For more info visit:
cpw.state.co.us/placestogo/…
Double check prior to venturing there. Thanks!
Description
This climb starts between Backtalk and the Bulge, up the center of the low angle "ramp" system that sticks out from the wall right at the ground. Once you locate the two bolts of Blackwalk, look right and locate the two bolts of Backtalk. Careful inspection further right will reveal three more bolts - this is Backstroke. The first two bolts are decent, the third is actually a thin piton up and right, on easier ground.
Climb straight up to the first bolt using a pinch/undercling to work your feet up. This is probably solid 11b. Clip the first bolt, and execute a very hard move using a tiny side pull for the left hand and a good highstep for the left foot - reaching up to a decent but sloping "ledge". I dyno'd for this and slapped it several times - it was very hard, but my partner was able to reach it statically - definitely the way to go. The climbing gradually eases through the second bolt. From here head up and right to the third bolt on easy climbing, then carefully head straight left for 20' to the Backtalk anchors.
Climb straight up to the first bolt using a pinch/undercling to work your feet up. This is probably solid 11b. Clip the first bolt, and execute a very hard move using a tiny side pull for the left hand and a good highstep for the left foot - reaching up to a decent but sloping "ledge". I dyno'd for this and slapped it several times - it was very hard, but my partner was able to reach it statically - definitely the way to go. The climbing gradually eases through the second bolt. From here head up and right to the third bolt on easy climbing, then carefully head straight left for 20' to the Backtalk anchors.
Protection
Three bolts protect this routes, and probably very small cams and RPs. I TR'd this route and recommend this (although setting it up can be tricky). Although I didn't spend a lot of time looking for gear placements, the climb struck me as being a dangerous lead - especially reaching the first bolt.
Photos
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